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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Blouse fitting help! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Blouse fitting help!
Can anyone tell me if this is a good fit?
Viviette
Viviette
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 1/13/13
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Date: 1/20/13 9:39 PM

Hey all! I am having a go at sewing myself some blouses. I haven't made myself any button up blouses, and in fact I never wear them as RTW because they don't fit. I have a slim hourglass figure - My high bust is 32", my full bust is 53.5", my under bust is 27" and my waist is 3 inches lower than that and is 25." I decided I want to have more nice looking blouses, so I am trying a pattern via recommendation from some of you.I am sewing Simplicity 1779. It has no front shaping darts except the bust dart, but it does have vertical back darts. I am aiming for a smooth fitted shape that I can tuck into a skirt. It doesn't need to be super fitted, but if it isn't a little fitted, my waist disappears. I have cut a size 10, since it fits my high bust and waist mms, and done an FBA. I also added a little bit to the font. I feel like the fit is close, but there are a few things that I'm worried about. I have attached a pic of what I did to the pattern, and a few shots that I made some markings on. For one thing, I'm not sure if the dart placement looks right. Also, there are some "C" shaped folds right under the bust. The don't look terrible, but I don't know if this is normal. I assume the front is supposed to fall smoothly, with no folds? Thanks a billion in advance!





-- Edited on 1/20/13 9:41 PM --

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/21/13 1:32 AM

I would start by boxing the dart (literally drawing a box around the dart starting at the side seam) cut it out and move it down so that the dart points to your apex. The dart should end at least an inch from your bust point. Right now it looks high to me maybe an inch+. That may solve the wrinkle too as the fullest part of the blouse would be where you are fullest. Unfortunately I don't know how to fix this blouse.

Also look at your side seams. If they are not straight add a larger seam allowance so you can get them vertical. You may need front waist darts to pull it in. Many people do.

waikikimum
waikikimum
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Date: 1/21/13 5:37 AM

I wonder if those C shaped folds would disappear if you made the dart larger. Try increasing the size of the dart and see if that removes them, now this will make the front shorter than the back at the side seams so you will need to add some back at the front hem.

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Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Quickie
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Date: 1/21/13 7:44 AM

I think that in doing the FBA the bustdart has grown very big Perhaps you could devide the misery by adding one or to other darts and rotating some of the surplus

Marie367
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Date: 1/21/13 9:14 AM

It looks to me that you changed the angle of the dart when you enlarged it so it is not in the right place anymore and needs moved down-look at how the dart looked on the original pattern to see the angle and placement-it needs moved down and pointed slightly up but I don't know if moving that would fix the extra you are seeing. I think you are almost there with the fitting-the rest looks pretty good.

Viviette
Viviette
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In reply to tinflutterby <<


Date: 1/21/13 1:33 PM

Awesome, boxing the dart is a great idea. I keep thinking something is up with the dart placement, but I couldn't decide what. I was wondering if I should put in vertical darts on the front too, I will make some little ones in my muslin and see if they help. Thanks so much!

Viviette
Viviette
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In reply to waikikimum <<
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Date: 1/21/13 1:34 PM

I did mess with it more last night and I pinned out about 1/2 extra from the dart area across the whole front, and that seemed to help it!

Viviette
Viviette
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In reply to Quickie <<


Date: 1/21/13 1:36 PM

It is really big. I was wondering what I was going to do about that because I wanted to sew this blouse in sheer material, and I think one huge dart will look odd.

Viviette
Viviette
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In reply to Marie367 <<
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Date: 1/21/13 1:38 PM

Thanks! It is so close - I feel like it just needs a little tweak somewhere to be great. I put it down last night because sewing while tired is never a good idea, but now I'm fresh and ready to try out all these ideas!

Silk Challis
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In reply to Viviette <<


Date: 1/21/13 1:46 PM

Quote: Viviette
I was wondering if I should put in vertical darts on the front too, I will make some little ones in my muslin and see if they help. Thanks so much!

Good work!

Vertical darts and princess seams will be your best friends to fit blouses. However, here the wrinkles pointing to the bust suggest that you need a little larger FBA.
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