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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Puckering on straight seams after applying binding ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Puckering on straight seams after applying binding
How do I prevent it?
lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/22/13 3:09 AM

I need some advice please! I am sewing a skirt with quite a few straight seams so I thought it would be a good chance to play with my newly acquired rayon seam binding. The skirt is some sort of mid weight polycotton that gave me no trouble when sewing and pressed nicely at the seams. However, as soon as I applied the seam binding I got puckers.

I am sewing each straight seam, pressing it open, then applying seam binding to each raw edge separately. I'm applying the binding as described in this tutorial. The rayon binding is a lighter weight than the skirt fabric and the stitch tension seems correct, but obviously I'm doing something wrong.

Can anybody advise me on how to prevent this puckering, or point me in the direction of a tutorial that addresses this issue?

Rhey
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Date: 1/22/13 8:32 PM

It's just where you sewed the binding onto the seam allowances, right? What settings do you have your iron on? Rayon fabric shrinks like crazy, so I always iron my binding on a dry, cool-ish setting because that's usually how you iron rayon fabric. If you apply too much moisture and heat you could be shrinking the binding, causing the puckering. That's all I can think of, maybe someone else knows better.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 1/22/13 9:37 PM

Do a test. The sections of the skirt may have a slight bias, which can stretch.

Cut a length of the binding and press as you will do the finished skirt.

Will it hold up? Does it shrink? If it holds up to the heat needed for the skirt, does the binding shrink each time it is pressed?

If it withstands the shrink test, preshrink before attaching to the fabric. Try not to stretch the fashion fabric nor the rayon binding as it is being stitched.

You may also want to change to a new needle.

I read the tutorial and the comments. No one had actually used the binding other than the author.

After testing, you may want to post (at the tutorial) the issues you encountered. It would be interesting to see the response.






-- Edited on 1/22/13 9:56 PM --

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lareine
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Date: 1/22/13 9:47 PM

Thinking about it, the puckering along the skirt seam appears as soon as I have attached the binding, before I have gone anywhere near the rayon with my iron. I have pressed it out as best I can but the end result was much better before I attached the binding.

There is a chance that I'm accidentally stretching the binding as I apply it. I'll do some careful testing and see if that turns out to be the problem.

The skirt isn't cut on the bias but I have just poked at it and it does have some lengthwise stretch (unexpected) so could that be the problem? Would using bias tape be better than ordinary seam binding in this case?

Thanks for the advice so far

goodworks1
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Date: 1/22/13 10:39 PM

Could you just skip binding the seams and use some other finish?

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iSewQuiltArt
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Date: 1/22/13 10:53 PM

I'm guessing you are stretching the binding a bit too much as you apply it and that tension is causing the puckering.

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lareine
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In reply to goodworks1 <<


Date: 1/23/13 0:18 AM

Quote: goodworks1
Could you just skip binding the seams and use some other finish?

Absolutely, and it would be far easier and quicker to just overlock the edges which is what I normally do. But I have seam binding and I want to understand how to use it properly
Doris W. in TN
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In reply to lareine <<
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Date: 1/23/13 5:18 AM

I wonder if your needle and thread are too large for the rayon binding. Whenever I use the Ambiance rayon lining fabric, I always have puckered seams unless I switch to a smaller needle and thinner thread. Do you have some scraps left, where you can exactly duplicate the fabric thickness and experiment with the seam binding?
-- Edited on 1/23/13 5:18 AM --

kkkkaty
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Date: 1/23/13 9:42 AM

Maybe clip the seam allowance where you've applied the binding? especially on curves?

oops, never mind, I see that you specified straight seams....
-- Edited on 1/23/13 10:42 AM --

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lareine
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In reply to Doris W. in TN <<


Date: 1/23/13 8:31 PM

Quote: Doris W. in TN
I wonder if your needle and thread are too large for the rayon binding.

Hmmmm, possibly, but I have no idea where to find thread that is thinner than the bog standard Gutterman stuff that I use. If I have to make special thread purchases in order to use seam binding, I think I'll just go back to the overlocker

Having said that, the binding itself and the raw edge do not pucker. It's the original seam that is being affected after the binding is applied. I have some time tomorrow so I'll experiment with non-stretch fabric and see if that works any better. I didn't even know the skirt fabric had lengthwise stretch until this discussion made me check it, so that could well be the culprit.
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