Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA for top with armhole dart? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
FBA for top with armhole dart?
Burda 7509
dove29

dove29  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/28/07
Posts: 1090
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/26/13 6:58 PM

I thought this bias-cut sleeveless top looked really cute, and easy. It's got bust darts from the armhole.
How would I go about doing a full bust adjustment on a top like this? I'm wearing about a D cup these days.

Fictionfan
star
Fictionfan  Friend of PR
Advanced
VT USA
Member since 5/19/06
Posts: 1221
online now
Login to reply to this post

In reply to dove29 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/26/13 8:48 PM

This cami top is cut on the bias, so that armhole dart should be on the cross-grain of the fabric after you cut the pieces. That doesn't really matter for your FBA except to explain why they put the dart there and not as a side bust dart. Darts that are on the bias could be distorted because the fabric will stretch along the bias. Basically, you do a regular FBA, but instead of adding a side bust dart, the extra all goes into that armhole dart. I am going to assume that you have done FBAs where you've added a side bust dart with the method described by PP in FFRP or in their DVD Full Busted. Essentially, you are rotating that side bust dart to the armhole, keeping the side seam as it is drafted unless you need to add length or width for some other reason.

So, as you would do any FBA, find the bust point. Mark your landmarks from the shoulder seamline through the bust point to the hem for one line, to the armhole (should go through that armhole dart) for another line, and to the side seam for the last line. Cut from the hem toward the shoulder through the bust point. This is the line where you will add the width that you need from the bust point to the waist and hem, with a small wedge toward the shoulder if you need it for larger cup sizes. If you don't need it, you don't cut from hem through bust point to shoulder, just from hem to bust point. Normally, you would cut from the bust point to the armhole seamline, and from the side seam to but not through the bust point. The armhole seamline anchors the FBA and the bust point is the hinge. Instead, cut from the armhole to but not through the bust point. This is the dart you are going to widen and the bust point is the hinge. Cut from the bust point to the side seam perpendicular to the line you've made from hem to shoulder. The side seam will be the anchor for your adjustments instead of the armhole seam line. Move the parts to make your FBA, should be maybe a half inch, could be up to an inch. The last thing to adjust is the center front length below the bust line.

I believe burda drafts for a C-cup, but with the bias cut, I'd err on the side of being more generous because the garment will tend to get longer and narrower with forces of stress. (This is why you should use wider seam allowances when you cut a bias garment; it gives you room to adjust the width if you lose some with handling.)

I hope that is clear. I can't do that drawing thing that some people seem to do so easily.

HTH

------
Fictionfan

dove29

dove29  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/28/07
Posts: 1090
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/26/13 10:48 PM

Thanks! Sounds good. Don't worry, I'm tracing the pattern and trying it out on some really cheap fabric first.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> FBA for top with armhole dart?

Merchants on PR
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

Online Sewing Classes
Restyling with Exposed Zippers
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Restyling with Exposed Zippers

Simplicity 4077
photo
Review by Jackie02 on 11/19/08
Read Review

Burda 8376 Pattern
Burda 8376 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 6612 Pattern ( Size 18W-20W-22W-24W )
McCalls 6612 Pattern ( Size 18W-20W-22W-24W )

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Burda 9826 Skirt
photo
Review by KathleenS on 9/10/05
Read Review

Blank Slate Lazy Day Pajamas Digital Pattern
Blank Slate Lazy Day Pajamas Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo Victoria Fur Trim Hat and Muff Digital Pattern ( Size newborn - child )
Peek-A Boo Victoria Fur Trim Hat and Muff Digital Pattern ( Size newborn - child )

Details
Price: $4.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Equinox Jacket Pattern
Sewing Workshop Equinox Jacket Pattern

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

THE COLLARS - A CD Book by Kenneth King
THE COLLARS - A CD Book by Kenneth King

Details
Price: $24.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN