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Beginner question on fit
Tightness across the back caused by too small armscye?
plumfan
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plumfan  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/30/13 12:39 PM

I wasn't sure where to put this, here or fitting woes. Since I'm a beginner I thought I'd try here first.

I'm taking Plus-size pattern fitting on Craftsy and couldn't wait for the Vogue pattern to come. So, I started with a tunic top from Simplicity.

I cut it out, made the adjustments etc. Overall it's not bad, but the armholes feel too small when I bring my arms forward. While I feel the tightness at the back of the armscye I wondered if I was a little to eager with the chopping during fitting, or if I should have added some width to the back.

So I guess the short question is, what would create the pull and tightness across the shoulder blades tell me about the fit of my top?

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/30/13 3:33 PM

I am totally not qualified to answer your question, but I took this class and thought she rushed over the details of how to mark changes on the basted fitting and how to make the adjustments, and did not offer much advice on how to do the fitting if you don't have a helper. For example, you may be able to pin down the back yourself (though it's awfully difficult), but how the heck are you supposed to be able to see what the fit is like, adjust the pins, and then mark it clearly?

She also did not show how to transfer the adjustments to the paper pattern.

I spent quite a bit of time with this, including redoing the front several times and watching the video carefully a number of times, and so far it's been a fail for me. (Whining, sorry.)

Sewandwrite
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Date: 1/30/13 4:04 PM

plumfan:

I have a similar problem. Mine is because my back is broader than the rest of of my frame. I have to do a broad back adjustment.

Your issue might be different, however. Others are likely to weigh in.

Harriet:

This pin-behind-yourself business ensures failure for some of us. I think that online teachers need to acknowledge this fact. Instead of assuming everyone can do this, they can recommend a fitting buddy if a student is new to fitting or simply cannot pin behind herself or himself.

Life is too short for me to spend hours of frustration to trying to pin behind myself, snapping photos, taking a muslin on and off repeatedly. I end up with no progress to show for it, leaving me eager to throw everything away.

I never finished Sarah Veblen's excellent skirt-fitting class here on PR because of this issue. It vexes me that I can't even get a skirt muslin done. I'm still looking for a fitting buddy.

HarrietHomeowner

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In reply to Sewandwrite <<


Date: 1/30/13 5:12 PM

Sewandwrite: we should get together!

plumfan
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner <<
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Date: 1/30/13 6:05 PM

There are a few areas that are a bit vague in the video. I put some of them down to my inexperience. I did make the paper tape dress form and it is somewhat helpful. I guess I'll see how helpful when I fit for the zipper. I can't remember, but I don't recall doing a measurement across the back from shoulder to shoulder. Perhaps I'll have my DH measure me tonight and compare the numbers.

I wish I could find a fitting buddy, or a fitting class in my area. I tried looking up Springfield folks here on PR but of the ones who listed Springfield or even Central Illinois, I think the most recent activity was about 2 years ago. I'm beyond the basics of PJ pants, pillows and shapeless garments, but those are the only classes I see offered in my area. The non-box-store shops around here are either quilt shops or machine dealers so there doesn't seem to be help there. My only hope is I get a reply about the local sewing guild through ASG - if it exists.

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

tinflutterby
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In reply to plumfan <<


Date: 2/1/13 11:53 AM

Of course a picture would help. I am assuming you clipped the arm seam allowance so it moves correctly. After that a broad back adjustment is a reasonable next step. The learning to fit process is lengthy but really worth it. I will often sew in my robe because it's easy to take off.

solveg
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Date: 2/14/13 4:54 PM

Do you think she is expecting that everyone will have made the dress form?

I'm finding that the tops I make often look like they fit great when you're standing in front of the mirror, but when you actually sit down and move in them they start to look very strange in spots. So maybe the dress form wouldn't be the solution, entirely.

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