Online Sewing Class: Bust Adjustments
SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Fitting Woes > French Dart-what does this wrinkle mean? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
French Dart-what does this wrinkle mean?
PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
Georgia USA
Member since 5/9/08
Posts: 49
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 2/3/13 12:08 PM

Hi, hoping someone better versed in french darts can help me. I just made my first muslin with a french dart, but I ended up with some diagonal wrinkles parallel to the french dart. It's similar to what you can see in this still shot of a Peggy Sagers webcast.

Is this the way french darts are supposed to look? Is my dart too small, or my circumference around the hip? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Patti
PS: I keep trying to link to this but the link is broken. If you copy and paste it, it should work: (sorry about the inconvenience)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77311013@N08/8440863445/in/photostream



-- Edited on 2/3/13 12:09 PM --
-- Edited on 2/3/13 12:11 PM --

Debbie Lancaster
star
Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 9/18/02
Posts: 2355
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

      



Date: 2/3/13 12:41 PM

Wrinkle

The wrinkle means you don't have enough fabric across the bust. A full-bust adjustment is required.

------
Debbie

PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
Georgia USA
Member since 5/9/08
Posts: 49
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 2/3/13 12:43 PM

okay, this particular pattern has individual cup sizes, so I guess if I go from a C cup to a D cup, it'll work. thanks so much!

clothingengineer
starstarstarstar
clothingengineer  Friend of PR
Member since 5/7/10
Posts: 531
Skill: Advanced
Body Type:
Send Message

      



Date: 2/3/13 4:18 PM

Do you have the same wrinkles in the back? I wonder if your shoulders are more sloped than the pattern is drafted for.

------
-- Anne
clothingengineer.com

PattiinATL
PattiinATL  Friend of PR
Georgia USA
Member since 5/9/08
Posts: 49
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 2/3/13 7:06 PM

No, they're just in the front, which made me think maybe I did something wrong when sewing the darts

mkhpaintsew
mkhpaintsew  Friend of PR
Member since 4/5/06
Posts: 233
Skill: Intermediate
Body Type:
Send Message

      



Date: 2/4/13 10:41 AM

If you have plenty of circumference or fabric going around, I would say you need a bigger cup size on your pattern. You need it to eliminate more length on the side seam. The top doesn't seem to be pulling horizontally in the bust area, so I would say it's a depth issue instead.

MarthaMcKeon
MarthaMcKeon
Member since 5/26/05
Posts: 235
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 2/12/13 5:46 AM

You need more length, not width. A horizontal wrinkle indicates lack of width, a vertical wrinkle indicates lack of length.

Try lengthening the front on the shorten/lengthen line, or about 2 inches about the waist. Start with about 1/2" and see if that wrinkle drops the grain and is smoother.

MarthaMcKeon
MarthaMcKeon
Member since 5/26/05
Posts: 235
Skill: Beginner
Send Message

      



Date: 2/12/13 5:46 AM

You need more length, not width. A horizontal wrinkle indicates lack of width, a vertical wrinkle indicates lack of length.

Try lengthening the front on the shorten/lengthen line, or about 2 inches about the waist. Start with about 1/2" and see if that wrinkle drops the grain and is smoother.
-- Edited on 2/12/13 5:46 AM --

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> French Dart-what does this wrinkle mean?

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Break your Serger Out of the Box
Break your Serger Out of the Box

Class Details

Online Class
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Class Details

BurdaStyle Magazine 06-2006-114

photo
by: Brahdelt

Review
Sewing Workshop Oasis Skirt Pattern

Sewing Workshop Oasis Skirt Pattern

Pattern Details
Victoria Jones Collection Pattern 104

Victoria Jones Collection Pattern 104

Pattern Details

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2015 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.