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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Splitting a fisheye dart (without a waist seam)

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Splitting a fisheye dart (without a waist seam)
If I rotate the top half into another seam, what happens to the lower half?
Member since 11/12/10
Posts: 40
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Date: 2/13/13 12:42 PM

Hello, all,

I'm trying to solve a (probably very simple!) pattern puzzle I've set for myself.

I have a pattern for a simple hip-length top. It's controlled by fisheye or double-ended darts on both the front and the back. I want to, and can easily, rotate the upper (bust) half of the dart to the shoulder seam and convert that to pleats or gathers.

I cannot, however, picture what to do with the remaining lower (hip) half of the dart. Since the top has no waist seam, leaving the lower half of the dart as-is would just awkwardly strand it in the middle of my blouse.

I'm having trouble brainstorming what I should do to this lower half of the fisheye dart. All my ideas -- remove the lower dart by somehow changing it into side seam shaping (how?), diagonally rotate the lower dart into the side seam (sort of like a French dart), close the dart and open some flare on the blouse's 'skirt'-- seem off the mark, especially since I want to make this pattern up in a very light fabric and would prefer as few seam lines as possible.

Is there an accepted way of tackling this problem of splitting the double-ended dart? My patterning books are mute on this point.

As always, thank you so much for your help and your time!
-- Edited on 2/13/13 12:43 PM --
Silk Challis
Silk Challis
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 10/15/08
Posts: 136
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 2/13/13 3:45 PM

Cut your pattern at the waist and perform your change.

Then reattach the top and bottom part matching the center front line. You will see that the bottom part is not matching anymore the top. Smooth the side seam by tracing a line from the waist of the top piece to the hip on the bottom piece. This way you have removed the dart from the bottom part.
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