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"shortcuts to designer/chanel jacket"
has anyone tried the "shortcut" method from threads dec 2006??
devviePuu
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devviePuu
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Date: 2/13/13 3:17 PM

susan khalje, please forgive me, but i'm considering (on my second chanel jacket) going the "shortcut" route described in the dec 2006 issue of threads. basically, the author bags out most of the jacket lining and then quilts, in order to avoid about 15 hours of fell-stitching. she also attaches the sleeve in one instead of by hand (lining and shell), to save another 15 hours.

wondering if anyone has tried these techniques and, if so, if they felt the result was as good as the "real" thing. having done it the "real" way, i know how awesome the result is, but i want to save that for special occasions...

original jacket, if you are curious, is here.

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puu
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solosmocker
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Subject: shortcuts to designer/chanel jacket Date: 2/14/13 7:05 PM

I've done the full on 100 plus hour method of Kahlje and I have done the quickie method. The biggest difference is in the "feel" of the jacket on your body, but not much difference. Given both jackets would be boucle and both lined with silk charmeuse, the hand worked jacket would have a softer more sweatery feel. Which process I would use for jacket number three? I think it would depend on the quality of the boucle. Hundred per cent wool Linton tweed deserves no less than the "long way". But if what you are after is to get this thing done so you can attack other projects or jackets, and you don't have sewing friends hanging around to impress, go with the quicker method. It looks the same, IMO, and is a heck of a lot less work. Decisions, decisions.....

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solosmocker
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Date: 2/14/13 7:23 PM

Here is a link to the final blogpost about the faster jacket. Hope this helps. You can back up a few posts to see more of the construction. http://lasewist.blogspot.com/2012/03/dolce-gabana-jacket-completed.html
-- Edited on 2/14/13 7:23 PM --

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devviePuu
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devviePuu
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In reply to solosmocker <<


Date: 2/19/13 2:38 PM

thanks, that is really helpful. the jacket i am working on right now is definitely NOT linton/chanel/100% wool boucle, it was just a nice feel in classic black and white, so i'm thinking i'll give the "shortcut" a try and see how i feel about it. i will be particularly interested to feel the tactile difference in the full-on method vs the quickie. (i already had to interface the boucle, which is of course a huge no-no, so there is no point hand-quilting it or quilting the panels individually!)

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puu
http://puusdooroftime.wordpress.com

sewgirl
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sewgirl
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Date: 10/10/13 1:11 PM

Just bumping this post with a quick question.
I'm hoping to start work on assembling my jacket, using the *shortcut* method.
When do you apply the pockets? Before attaching and quilting the lining, or after?
If after, do you attach them by hand? Or machine them through the jacket and lining?

I know, I know, Coco is turning in her grave at the thought of such a question

devviePuu
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devviePuu
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In reply to sewgirl <<


Date: 10/11/13 4:29 PM

i would suggest sucking it up and doing it by hand after all of the quilting, because attaching the pockets through the quilting will ruin the effect both aesthetically and functionally.

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puu
http://puusdooroftime.wordpress.com

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