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Forum > Fitting Woes > I need some construstive criticism-Pants fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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I need some construstive criticism-Pants fitting
Pants Fitting
StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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Subject: I need some constructive criticism-Pants fitting Date: 2/14/13 11:28 AM

I'm having problems fitting pants for myself. Since I couldn't find any patterns that fit me well, I bought a Sure Fit Design kit and have been working on drafting myown patterns. My goal is to come up with a sloper that fits well and I can base other patterns off of. So far I've done two pair of pants with mixed results. You can see them here Fit issues. I took 3 sets to compare the fit. RTW, my first pair, and my current pair.

My first pair, do to some mis-measureing has a lot of ease. There's a lot of room in the hips, the legs are very wide, and the waist was originally 4 inches to big. I tapered in the waist, tried to taper in the hips and legs, but they're still to wide for my liking, and I'm having a problem with the inseam pulling up.

My current pair, I took the waist measurement down to where it needed to be, took some of the fullness out of the hips and narrowed the legs. I still had the inseam pulling up even more than the first pair, so I tried to put in a horizontal wedge dart to lengthen the inseam. It helps a little but it's still pulling up on one leg. Also I messed with the crotch measurements because I was having issues with the front crotch seam being to long. I think I need to go back to my original crotch measurements, because now it seems to short in the back.

Anything else I need to do? How do I get the inseam to stop pulling up?




-- Edited on 2/14/13 11:33 AM --
-- Edited on 2/14/13 11:33 AM --
-- Edited on 2/14/13 11:35 AM --

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Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

Fictionfan
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Date: 2/14/13 11:52 AM

You've got an excellent start! Looks like you have the short front, longer backside, tilted waist fitting issues that so many of us have.

I didn't look very closely, so I probably missed something. The front crotch is too long. When you added to the inseam, you most likely added to the crotch length where the front and back crotch meet, which made the too-long front longer.

You can take out that excess length between the curve of the front crotch and the waist, somewhere in the middle that doesn't change any curves and doesn't change the waist details. Just fold out the amount that the center feels too high. Leave the side seams alone for that section, since they look okay at a quick glance. Make the decrease as a wedge across the front with all of the extra length taken from the center and none at the side seams. It's a long horizontal dart. Just true up the center front to clean it up. After you fold out the horizontal wedge, those baggy folds where the thigh meets the body should go away.

It also looks like you need a little carved out of the lower back crotch. Once that slight wedgie is gone, the width and length issues below the bum can be tackled, but the length corrections above should be done before you can deal with the folds and pull lines that are at the back thigh area.

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Fictionfan

Nancy K
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In reply to StitchyMama <<
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Date: 2/14/13 12:27 PM

Just one suggestion, don't spend time in a muslin with the details; the object is just to fit and to sew it up quickly. Eliminate the front pockets as well. Just pin them out in the pattern front. Buy a bolt of muslin at Jo ann's either on sale or with a 50 off coupon.
You have too much fabric pooling at your lower crotch. Part of this can be eliminated by straightening out the center front. You also have fabric pulling toward your inner thigh. This calls for a full inner leg or knock knee adjustment since your inner thighs touch.
You do need more room in the back crotch and you probably need to shorten your front crotch because you do have a tilted waist. You may even have an uneven waist, which needs to be addressed later, and before you put on a waistband. If you put a piece of 1" elastic around your waist you can adjust your waist up or down until it is where it fits best.

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JTink
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In reply to StitchyMama <<


Date: 2/14/13 1:15 PM

I don't really see too much length in the front crotch. I'm thinking more of the inner leg issue. Perhaps an inner leg adjustment might help everything relax.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/14/13 3:15 PM

I'm assuming the green pants are the latest? I agree, your front crotch is not too long. What I see you need, because I need it too, is a wedge. Cut from center back to the side seam in a horizontal line and add maybe an inch. That should correct your inseam riding up unless there are other issues I don't see right now.

I also, do as Nancy K says, straighten the front crotch. You may need to do an inner thigh adjustment too, but for me, the back wedge takes care of it, so I would start there.

I have heard you can also email Glenda and send her your photos. I would be interested in what she says.
-- Edited on 2/14/13 3:22 PM --

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 2/14/13 4:44 PM

Thanks. Both these pants were the finished product after I had done several muslin adjustments. The first pair I can wear, even if they are a little big. I plan on wearing the second pair if I can correct the back crotch issue.

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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In reply to lca <<


Date: 2/14/13 4:52 PM

Pattern 2 is the latest. They're tan, but it could be the lighting making them look green. Glenda and I have emailed back and forth about the first pair, and she was very helpful. I just felt a little silly bugging her again so soon. Is there any way to do this wedge without having to cut new back pieces?

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Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

RMJ
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In reply to StitchyMama <<


Date: 2/14/13 10:30 PM

You can make the wedge adjustment without cutting IF you have large enough seam allowances. I sometimes draw two identical small pictures of a pattern piece (just a few inches high), make the desired change to one, and compare it to the unchanged piece to see how the cutting lines of the pattern have really changed. A wedge will change the angles and positions of the cutting lines in multiple places.

StitchyMama
StitchyMama
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Date: 2/15/13 7:24 AM

Guess I have some work to do today. Glenda from Sure Fit suggested tilting the waist, lengthening the center back, and the back crotch point and straightening the leg by taking a wedge out of the side seam. All that being said she said the second pair was fitting better than the first. So I guess I'm making progress.

------
Brenda
My blog: Stitch 1 Stitch 2
Knitting/Sewing/Life in general
http://stitch1stitch2.blogspot.com/

KathySews
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Date: 2/15/13 8:31 AM

Nothing to add here. Just wanted to say, isn't Glenda great? She is so willing to help. Hang in there, you are getting close and when you get that tnt pant pattern you can "borrow" features from other patterns.

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