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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Burda 3197 T shirt (Lydia)

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Burda 3197 T shirt (Lydia)
How to select size if you're full busted?
marymary86
marymary86
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Date: 2/14/13 6:16 PM

I've heard to go by your high bust measurement and then do an FBA.

Does that apply to Burda knit tops?

I'm reading the reviews but I haven't found anything yet ...

------
Mary


Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 2/14/13 9:16 PM

That is my understanding too. Also, you could do a "cheater" FBA & taper out for the full bust measurement.

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to Julia C <<
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Date: 2/14/13 10:10 PM

I did finish reading all the reviews. It was a great read (and so many cute t's!) but no mention of how people chose the size they used.

------
Mary


JeanM

JeanM
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Date: 2/15/13 7:29 PM

If you have larger than a b-cup, you may find that you get a better fit through the neck and shoulders by measuring your high bust, then doing a FBA (full bust adjustment). That is what I usually do. There are some people who find it easier to use the size that corresponds to their full bust, and alter the neck and shoulders. You might need to try both approaches to see what works for you.

Most patterns are drafted for b-cups (including Burda), though you can find patterns which have different fronts for different cup sizes. You can find some in Simplicity, Butterick, Vogue, McCalls; also Silhouette patterns, Pamelas patterns, and a new independent, Cake patterns. Kwik Sew patterns are C-cup in the larger sizes (large and up, I think); it is now being managed by one of the big 4 so that may change. There are some others, but the names aren't coming up in my brain at the moment.

You might want to look at the Communing with Fabric blog and the Stitches and Seams blog; both of these ladies are fabulous sewers, and share their FBAs and other adjustments. Also you can find links to other bloggers and techiques for patterns adjustments through both of these blogs. Also take a look at some of the older topics under the Plus Size Sewing topic, for FBAs and also for pattern suggestions and links to plus-size reviews.




-- Edited on 2/15/13 7:30 PM --

Elona
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 2/15/13 9:32 PM

It probably depends to some extent on how 'outsized' your attributes are, but the late Bobbie Carr, a famous Burda maven who used to teach fitting with Burda, told me (a C-D cup) to 'trust Burda.'

She said to use your neck measurement (a unique but standard Burda measurement) to determine your neck and shoulder size, and then to use your FULL bust measure, tapering back to your waist size.

This worked for me, and frankly, until you have made a muslin with this system, I don't see any point in adding a FBA. If you do that, how can you evaluate the Burda system?

Personally, I don't see any reason to reinvent the wheel. Why not just follow Burda's extremely complete measurement chart--to the letter--to make your trial garment?

marymary86
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 2/15/13 11:42 PM

I'd really like to try this.

If I understand you correctly, do I trace off a new pattern using the neck size for the neck and shoulders and then go out to the bust size as I trace off the sides?

I measure 38" for the upper bust and 41 around the fullest part of my bust. That's really not that big of a difference and I agree that I've read several places that Burda drafts for a C cup.

Also, do you measure around your neck or stand the tape measure on end and measure the actual (jewel) neckline?

Your response is exactly the type of info I was hoping to read. I didn't think I could use the normal big 4 advice as Burda is drafted with different assumptions.

------
Mary


Elona
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 2/16/13 4:15 PM

That's pretty much it. Bobbie Carr said to start tapering out to the full bust at the notches on the armhole.

As to the neck,
here is BurdaStyle's own pic--along with other photos of the process. This is actually a very good demo, one that probably belongs in the 'favorites' of those who would like to use any Burda pattern.

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 2/16/13 5:25 PM

I'm going to use Nancy's Zieman pivot and slide but use the full bust size to determine how far out to pivot.

Thank you, thank you, thank you for the link to Burda's "how to measure yourself" page.

I love the way Burda pants fit and hope to get good results with their tops too. I think there is an inner German inside of me screaming to get out!

------
Mary


aussie mem
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Date: 3/4/13 6:57 PM

Hi everyone.
So glad someone started this thread. I also have been confused with Burda. I have changed shape alot over the past yearand now my measurements fall in many different places. I have never understood what to do with the length measurements. My front waist matches a 46 and back a 52. My bust dpth matches 46 as well. Do I cut the shoulder seam in front at 46 etc or do I do take the amt out with a fold.My neck is a 52. Any help would be great.
Mary

marymary86
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Date: 3/4/13 8:27 PM

I'm not very advanced with fitting, etc. but I'll share what I did. You probably have more experience sewing so take it with a grain of salt (at least this will bump your question and maybe you'll get some better advice!) ;)

I figured that I can RTW t shirts and they're acceptable. Not the greatest fit but still acceptable. So I grabbed my favorite RTW t. I also made the best guess I could about what size to start with. I had about 10 yards of inexpensive knit fabric in a color I hated (which helped me be willing to cut, sew, and accept the first one wouldn't be a t shirt that would get worn.)

I used my high bust measurement and just went for it. The shoulders seemed too wide and I compared to my favorite RTW shirt. The shoulders were 2" wider.

I altered and made a second shirt. It came out okay; I've worn it in public and got the comment "wow! you've lost weight!" I think clothes that fit well do make you look trimmer so I felt like I was on the right track.

I compared the pattern I ended up with to a Kwik Sew t shirt and really like the shoulders better on the Kwik Sew. So soon I'm going to repeat the process on a new to me pattern and see if it's an improvement. I think each time I try to fit I learn a little more.

I also think even a small improvement such as adding some room over a full bust makes a difference.

------
Mary


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