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Forum > Fitting Woes > Add armscye dart to woven raglan ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Add armscye dart to woven raglan
westmoon
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westmoon  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/15/13 9:19 AM

I am working on adjusting a pattern for a woven raglan tee (more specifically, Burda Plus 01-2013-433). I need a MASSIVE FBA due to my very large bust but I am not sure where to put the resulting dart. I've come up with a few options (the most obvious being: sew a bust dart), but as I wandered around the internet looking for ideas I saw several vintage patterns with the dart rotated into one or more armscye darts. I am weirdly attracted to this option, even though I've never ever seen it in the flesh and can't really find a photo of one done in a woven fabric.

Has anyone done this or seen it? The obvious answer is for me to muslin it, which I will, but I thought I would mine the collective experience of PR before I venture into fabric.

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One woman. One sewing machine. One giant stack of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 2/15/13 11:40 PM

I've sewn many woven tops as you describe. (Guess they would be vintage patterns these days). A dart can be eased in rather than sewn, but since you say you need a large one, I would probably sew it as a dart.

Darts or easing to the cf at the bust area was once considered old fashioned; now they are being seen, so start your own trend.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/16/13 9:26 AM

I think a dart is good anywhere on any fabric where it can look good in the garment, and make you look good in the garment. I would suggest, if you have enough extra, of if you have not yet cut the fashion fabric out, draping some over your bodice and fold a dart in where you would like to see if it will work. Depending on the fabric weave, print it may or may not work well with the pattern, but draping the actual fabric may give you an idea of how the finished dart will look. Also, try working the dart where you want it in your muslin to see if it correctly adjusts the fit. If the muslin fits well with the dart, and the fabric takes it well, then for sure go for it.

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