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Eureka! Pants that Fit
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KathySews
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KathySews
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Date: 2/18/13 1:58 PM

Someone mentioned this pants pattern on another topic. Rather than take over that discussion, I thought I would start a new one.

Does anyone have any information or experience with this? It certainly sounds interesting. Their concept is to offer pants pattern with multiple back options -- kind of like the multi cup patterns.

Eureka! Pants that Fit

eta I would like to see someone use a larger size model in one of their videos someday.
-- Edited on 2/18/13 1:59 PM --

Elona
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In reply to KathySews <<
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Date: 2/18/13 3:50 PM

In doing a quick internet search, I don't see any feedback from actual customers.

It appears to be so new that there's little info out there yet.

nancy2001
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Date: 2/19/13 4:19 AM

I own the Eureka pants pattern and am now working with Sarah Veblen through her private Online Fitting Help service to perfect the fit of my pants. I highly recommend both the pattern and working with Sarah. Sarah is a genius when it comes to fit. In fact, she wrote the book -- Perfect Fitting, which quite a few of us here on PR already own (here's my review of the book).

Although I'm slim, I have a pear shaped figure and a relatively flat, "mature" rear end. Last spring, I took Sarah's bodice fitting class here on PR, and this winter, I treated myself to three private online sessions. each of which cost $40 and the Eureka pants pattern. I'm a real bargain hunter when it comes to sewing, but this was money well spent. Some people have spent several thousand dollars to fly across the country for a pants fitting class with Sarah. I got the same benefit for a small fraction of the cost.

Right now, I'm sewing up my final pants mock-up and should be able to post photos of them here later today. In the meantime, here are photos of the front, side and back views of my next to last pants muslin. See how smooth the back view is, with almost no drag lines. I've never had a fit like that, and the final mockup will be even better!

Note that the lines drawn on my pants muslin are the HBLs (Horizontal Balance Lines), which are printed on the Eureka pattern and a key feature of Sarah's fitting technique. Sarah and I worked together to get the HBLs and other seamlines straight, and when they were, all the excess fabric and drag lines were gone --and the fit of the final mock-up I'm working on now (and will post later today) is virtually perfect. For comparison, this is what the back of my pants used to look like. Not a pretty sight, and that was my old TNT!

My advice is that if you're serious about getting the best fitting pants possible, you should invest in the Eureka pattern, the Perfect Fitting book, and a few private online fitting sessions with Sarah.





-- Edited on 2/19/13 8:33 AM --

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

TailorsDen
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Date: 2/19/13 8:29 AM

Yes, I've also done the Eureka Pant. After reading Sarah V's excellent fitting book and she how she fits her patterns with the horizontal balance lines to ensure the garment is perfectly on grain, I bought the pants pattern - more out of curiosity than anything else. I just wanted to see how these different backs looked

For perspective about the figure and background going into this experiment: my burda size is usually 46-48, figure is pear shape with front fullness. Have sewn for many years, including professionally.

The short version:
The end result was that I got an excellent fit with very little modification to the right sized pattern and now use it as as my master pants sloper. LOL, for me this is high praise for a North American pattern because up to this point my master had been based on a draft developed by a friend from the german Mueller system

The longer version:
There are at least 3 distinguishing and very significant things about this pattern:

1) Sizing
This mult-size pattern uses front-back body depth as a key sizing and fitting feature.

The pattern comes in all sizes from XXS - to XXL. There is 1 front for each size. However, there are 3 different back pieces within each size and this is one of the beauties of this pattern.

The sizing of this pattern is somewhat different from usual in that you use only 2 measurements to pick your size: Abdomen and Hip. Remember, there is one 1 Front piece per size. There are 3 possible Back pieces within each size: Back #1 is for thin front-back figures, Back #2 is for average front-back depth figures, and Back # 3 is for either quite deep figures or full buttock figures. The pattern includes a full page size chart for every one of these possible choices and you make your choice according to the Abdomen & Hip for the appropriate size.

For example, a size MED has one Ab & Hip measurement for Back # 1, a slightly bigger measurement for Back # 2, and a still slightly bigger measurement for Back # 2. You pick the Back # which corresponds closest to your body measurements. In my case, the chart measurements were almost spot-on for my body measurements.

2) Back Crotch Shape
The back pattern crotch is quite flat. It is shaped like a backwards L as opposed to a gentle ski slope, if that makes any sense. (For those of you who have ever used Wild Ginger Software, the reverse L shape was in an early iteration of PMB). Personally I find this shape has advantages for mature figures.

3) A 3rd beauty of the pattern is the 27 or 28 page instruction booklet that is published with it, detailing how to fit your pattern based on what those horizontal balance lines are showing on your body. This is a proper 8.5 x 11" stapled booklet - not pattern newsprint.


In my experiment, I tried all 3 Back pattern pieces in my Med Size to see the effect and difference. That was really enlightening in understanding the concept of "body depth" and seeing it's effect on the pattern. Let me emphasize, it's not necessary to try all 3 - her chart is very detailed about which size you can use - I did this simply out of curiosity.

The end result was, after 2 muslins, I had a perfectly fitted and perfectly balanced pant. As a result of the fitting process, the only changes I made to personalize the fit and hang were to use a back crotch length just slightly longer than Back #2 and to use my crotch curve template to slightly scoop it downwards just a tad at the back. (edited to add: Back # 3 was way too large for me. All I needed was a tiny bit more length on the back crotch length so I did it manually.)

Once the horizontal (and one vertical) balance lines are good, the instructions have you personalize the dart fit and the waistline placement. In other words, the waist size and shape is very personalized as opposed to pre-determined by the pattern size you choose.

This pattern is intended to be a FITTING process first and a pattern for finished wearable pants after that. In other words, you are intended to make the muslin out of a something that you mark on. ie there will be no wearable muslin right out of the package this if you follow the pattern directions.






-- Edited on 2/19/13 8:34 AM --
-- Edited on 2/19/13 8:38 AM --

nancy2001
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In reply to TailorsDen <<
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Date: 2/19/13 9:17 AM

I agree that the Eureka pattern booklet and Sarah's book are both excellent. But I'm not a sewing professional like you, and in order for me to get the best possible fit, I still needed to rely on Sarah's critical eye and expertise which I got through her Online Fitting Help.

I used the Eureka XS pattern with Back 1, and this combination actually happened to be the one that best corresponded to my measurements. My final pattern looks fairly close to the original Eureka. But the small adjustments that Sarah suggested (scooping the crotch, taking in the waist, broadening the back hip ever so slightly and changing the length of the darts) made all the difference in getting the back of my pants to hang perfectly. I know I would never have been able to get these results working by myself, not even with the book and the booklet.

And Sarah is an absolute delight to work with. She responded quickly to all my questions, and her suggestions are clear and concise.




-- Edited on 2/19/13 9:29 AM --

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

Patti B
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Date: 2/19/13 9:53 AM

Nancy and TailorsDen, thank you both for sharing your experience with this pants pattern. We are all looking for the perfect pants pattern and this looks worth investigating.

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Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

Mary Heckman
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In reply to KathySews <<
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Date: 2/19/13 10:59 AM

I just was looking at this pattern. I am a plus size women, and my belly is actually bigger than my butt. Do you know anyone in plus size that has had success making these pants?

AdaH
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Date: 2/19/13 11:57 AM

Mary, I just went to the site and watched a short video. One of the women who created these patterns is a plus size. That is usually a good sign that these pants would work for a plus size person.

I ordered the pants. Can't wait to work with this pattern.

Looking forward to pictures of Nancy's pants.

Nancy, how does working with Sarah Veblen through her private Online Fitting Help service work?
-- Edited on 2/19/13 12:00 PM --

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Ada

unfinishedprojects
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Date: 2/19/13 1:19 PM

I also ordered. Thanks for posting the info!

nancy2001
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In reply to AdaH <<
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Date: 2/19/13 1:58 PM

Ada, Sarah is very easy to work with.

Before I signed up for Sarah's private Online Fitting Help, I sent Sarah an email explaining that I'd taken her Bodice Fitting Class on PR last year, had her Perfect Fitting book and Eureka pants pattern and wanted her help with fitting a pair of pants. I also asked approximately how many two-part sessions she thought it would take -- five or ten. Sarah wrote back that she'd be pleased to help me and she thought the pants could be fit within five two-part sessions. Actually, it ended up taking just three two-part sessions for a fee of $120, which I believe is a real bargain, since Sarah charges $445 for her three-day pants fitting workshop at her studio in Maryland or Reno, Nevada. And that's not even counting what the airfare and hotels would run.

I then paid $40 via paypal for my first two-part session, and Sarah helped me choose the correct pattern size (XS, Back 1), and we began the fitting process. For each part of the two-part session, I submitted three photos of my muslin (front, side and back), and within one or two days, Sarah responded with her recommended fixes. If my photos were unclear or if the muslin wasn't sitting properly on my body (which happened twice), Sarah patiently told me to retake the photos and generously granted me a free do-over.

I am now on the second part of my third $40 session and my pants pattern is very close to being done. As I mentioned before, there's no way I could have ever gotten these results myself.

I'm going to get off the computer now and take the photos of my Final Mock-up so I can send them to Sarah for her suggestions and post the pictures on this thread.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

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