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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Burda lovers - do you find the shoulders to be wide?

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Burda lovers - do you find the shoulders to be wide?
marymary86
marymary86
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Georgia USA
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Date: 2/18/13 8:29 PM

I've made Jalie and big 4 tops. The shoulders have been fine. RTW shoulders seem to be fine.

I just made a muslin for my first Burda top. The shoulder seam is falling off my arms! DH put a pin where he thought the seam should be (and it looked good to me) and then measured to the actual seam. It was almost 2 inches!!

So now I'm wondering ... is it just me?

------
Mary


Michelle L
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Michelle L
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Date: 2/18/13 8:35 PM

I find Burda shoulders to be narrower than big 4

Check your pattern and make sure it isn't meant to be a drop shoulder, or some other design feature.

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

marymary86
marymary86
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Georgia USA
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Date: 2/18/13 8:37 PM

It's Burda 3197. Just a classic set in sleeve.

I must have done something but I sure don't know what!!

------
Mary


nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 2/18/13 9:01 PM

I have very narrow shoulders, and find I need to adjust Burdas 1/2 inch. That said, they are usually narrower than Big 4, which I have to shorten up to an inch.

The only thing I can come up with is that the envelope patterns have seam allowances included--if you accidentally added SAs (as you would for the magazine patterns) that would account for it.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
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So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
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marymary86
marymary86
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Georgia USA
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In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 2/18/13 9:27 PM

I didn't add seam allowances but that was a good thing to consider.

I'm wondering if I stretched the seam while sewing? I'm just making a muslin so I didn't use anything to stabilize the seam.

We're done for the night but I'll check it against the pattern tomorrow.

I altered the pattern adding room to the bust so maybe I did something (I cut the shirt from a traced altered pattern.

Anyway thanks for the comments; it helps me know not to start slashing the original pattern but to figure out what's going on first!! Two inchess too wide (after sewing up) seemed crazy to me!! I'm glad I trusted my gut and came here to ask.

------
Mary


Elona
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 2/18/13 9:43 PM

I have very broad shoulders, and Burda is generally perfect for me--though not during the nutso shoulder-pad-insane 80s. On the Burda envelope or somewhere on the pattern, there is usually a note about the shoulder width, usually either broad or normal.

However, the shoulder seam is necessarily on the bias, and it is incredibly easy to stretch out. I generally stabilize with something, but I always sew from the shoulder up towards the neck.

GBK

GBK  Friend of PR
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 2/19/13 0:59 AM

I have rather broad shoulders and still, for me almost all company draft too wide shoulders but burda's are particularly wide on me: it's not unusual that I pin out 1 inch on burda patterns while 3/8'' suffice for most other companies.

Same in many sewing classes I attended here in Germany: many people need to narrow shoulders when sewing a burda pattern.

Last but not least, burda apparently uses a German drafting method (named Müller & son) for their bodices. When I had a class where we were taught this method, I wasn't too surprised to find my bodice turningout to be as wide in the shoulders as I knew it from burda patterns ....

HTH!



-- Edited on 2/19/13 1:01 AM --

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Happy Sewing!

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Kansas USA
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 2/19/13 7:51 AM

Quote: marymary86
I'm wondering if I stretched the seam while sewing?
Anyway thanks for the comments; it helps me know not to start slashing the original pattern but to figure out what's going on first!!

Dumb question--did you measure the pattern and compare it to your muslin?

------
~Gem in the prairie

Shellia

Shellia
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International CANADA
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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 2/19/13 8:10 AM

I believe directional sewing on the shoulder seam is from the neck to the shoulders.
Directional sewing tip

------
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having a dog makes you rich.

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
Posts: 3176
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In reply to GBK <<


Date: 2/19/13 11:31 AM

I'm not the best seamstress but your post made me feel like I wasn't crazy.

I pulled out Kwik Sew 3741 (I haven't sewn it but I'm the quest to have a great basic TNT T shirt pattern so I was armed and ready!)

I didn't take time to get the KS seam allowance but I laid the Burda front bodice over the KS front bodice. Including seam allowances and comparing largest size to largest size, the Burda pattern was 1/2 " wider.

Then I took a RTW T shirt that fits me well. I folded out the seam allowanaces on the Burda pattern and it was still almost an inch longer than the T shirt.

Whew! I feel better.

Now I need to decide if I'm to alter the shoulders in the Burda or just start over with the KS T shirt. I'm out of muslin (cheap knit fabric).

I think I'm going to trace off the KS unaltered and just go with it. It couldn't look any worse than a RTW T. I need something to wear tonight! The Burda shoulders were so wide that I wouldn't have worn the shirt in public. It was that bad.

------
Mary


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