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Adjustments lead to screwed up armscye
lost my seam allowances
Cecropia
Cecropia
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Date: 2/20/13 12:45 PM

I'm new to tissue fitting/making muslins... Help please!!

I am working on the bodice of Simplicity dress 1797, view A, with a bias finished neckline. So far on the tissue I have made adjustments for narrow back, short waist, forward head/shoulder, small bust (as per FFRP).

The front of the muslin was too wide (gaping neck, princess seam far outside of bustline) which seemed odd because when I have the tissue on, it seems to perfectly meet my center front. I recently picked up Perfect Fitting from the library, and I tried pinching out fullness as the fabric "guides" me. Thing is, when I pinch out 3/4" from the center front widening to 1 3/4 at the neckline, the princess seams line up much better with my bustline and the gaping neckline is fixed (I widened the front side seams an equal amt). However, the armscye is pulled in far too much. In fact, the armscye needs widening on both the front and the back (was I wrong in thinking I have a narrow back? The center back of the tissue went past mine by nearly 1/2").

My question is, am I setting myself up for disaster by messing with the center front? Is a total armscye adjustment incredibly complicated? This is not something I'm seeing addressed in either book, which makes me think I'm way out in left field. Plus I don't have much guidance on improvising the armscye adjustment. I understand that I may need to redraft the sleeve...

I tried to put up some pictures to show the problem.

I was wracking my brain about how to adjust for slightly round back, which I think I have, but with much cut out of the upper back I couldn't figure it out, so I just made the muslin without it. DH thinks that taking in the princess seams at the armscye is the way to go.

DolphinDancer30

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Date: 2/20/13 2:55 PM

I'm not seeing a rounded back. I see forward shoulders.

Cecropia
Cecropia
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Date: 2/20/13 4:46 PM

This pattern and the first one I tried both had some gaping in the back armholes, which FFRP says is a sign of slightly round back, plus it says forward head/shoulders is often accompanied by high round back...

I'm still just beginning to diagnose my fit issues; it feels like guesswork at times.

JTink
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Date: 2/20/13 7:01 PM

I agree with Dolphin Dancer. I don't see a round back, but do see a forward shoulder. Your upper arms look like mine(not thin) and I usually have to add to the width of my sleeve at the upper arm area.

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 2/20/13 11:18 PM

Sounds and looks to me like you started with a size that's too large. Try starting with tissue fitting a size that fits your shoulders and neck better, then move on from there. You can blend to a larger size below the armscye, which you will probably need, but, for me at least, getting the shoulders and neck right first makes all the difference in getting a pattern to fit correctly with the minimum of tweaks.

It also looks like you may be trying to fit your muslin too tightly.

PS. Love your user name!
-- Edited on 2/20/13 11:33 PM --

------
Debbie

Devon Carberry
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Date: 2/28/13 11:03 PM

Cecropia, I have many of the issues you explain. I'm quite small across the upper bust line and when I try to adjust the rest goes out of wack.It's so frustrating. If you figure it out, please post.

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SisterDevon

SVN
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Date: 3/3/13 5:59 PM

I've been working on a very similar problem, today. I think you have removed too much fabric at the bottom of your arm crease line on the front. I did the same, initially, and then couldn't move my arms once I added sleeves! You're creating the same problem you would have if your armhole was too low (and would therefore pin down your arm).

SVN
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Date: 3/3/13 6:00 PM

oops, posted twice
-- Edited on 3/3/13 6:00 PM --

Cecropia
Cecropia
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Date: 3/14/13 11:51 PM

Ok, a vacation and an illness later, I've finally come back to this...

link to 5 newer pictures

This is muslin #3 (we won't talk about #2). I cut a smaller size as suggested and blended to the larger waist. I feel good about the front from the bust up; the gap in the neckline was fixed with the smaller pattern (thanks!). I *think* the wrinkles in the back are from sway back, and that's a fairly easy fix. The fullness under the bust... no clue. I need fullness to accommodate my belly pooch especially when sitting, so do I just deal with the poofiness when standing? The top feels comfortable as I'm moving around, so it's hard for me to imagine I'm way off with the fitting.

JTink
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In reply to Cecropia <<
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Date: 3/15/13 8:45 AM

I think this looks great...My suggestion would be, attach the skirt to the bodice. It will make a difference in the fit and you might see that it "pulls" some of the pouf out when you stand.

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