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Suggestions and Fit Instruction
Butterick 5678
MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
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Date: 2/20/13 11:23 PM

I am making Butterick 5678, version A (but with the full collar). I am using broadcloth as my muslin as I scored it for cheap.

I cut a 14 with a C cup.

My observations:
*I did NOT realize my left shoulder sloped downward so much compared to my right!!!!!

*The shirt is gaping but I don't know if that means I need the 14- D cup or to go up a size to a 16-C cup.

*The shirt is slightly snug across the shoulders but is perfect through the waist (my general problem with RTW button front shirts).

*My sleeve setting is a work in progress as are my princess seams. I believe I've since found good resources for these technical skills. I am going to do another muslin this weekend.

*My boobs look lopsided! Is this from the seams?

Butterick 5678


As always, help is appreciated!
-- Edited on 2/20/13 11:24 PM --

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Rosalaya
Rosalaya  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/21/13 4:16 AM

Hi, good job on that shirt. Brill photos too.
I'm thinking that ....
1. Perhaps a small shoulder pad on that lower shoulder may be all you need (for the appearance of it).
2) And I think that if you increase your FBA that it would provide sufficient ease both through the bust and also stop the shirt gaping and it may ease the tightness across the shoulders.
3) Do you see the horizontal lines at your back waist? Google "fit that swayback" and look at the
1) Pattern Scissors Cloth @ buzzybeesworld blog
2) Gerties "blogforbettersewing"
3) Don McCunns blog
& for when you are doing trousers 4) coletterie
Because I think that reading them could help you better than I could explain it [hey, why re-invent the wheel??]
And I think you may have what they call 'a rotated arm' but someone else will have to help you with that.

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
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In reply to Rosalaya <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:28 AM

Thank you for taking the time :)

I'll check out those resources. I've wondered what "swayback" was when I saw people mention it.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

nicegirl
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nicegirl
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Date: 2/21/13 9:43 AM

I am *not* a fit expert, but my suggestions are, in the order I'd try them:

-narrow the shoulders up to 1/2 inch. That should give you more movement.

-Broad back adjustment (my method is here

Once those are done, you probably will need a swayback adjustment, but I would do the BBA first because releasing some room across the shoulders should reduce the wrinkling right below them (I think).

I am not any kind of knowledgeable on the full bust adjustment, but it looks like you could use a tad more bust room and possibly could move the bust point up, based on this side view where it looks like the top is riding up under the armpit so in order to get the fullest part of the blouse over the fullest part of the bust. The other side doesn't look like that though, so it might be the uneven shoulder issue instead. Try slowly moving the shirt up and down over the bust; if there is a point that feels most roomy that is *not* where it sits naturally, bust point might be an issue.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Marie367
Marie367
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Ohio USA
Member since 5/28/11
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Date: 2/21/13 6:02 PM

I am wondering (as are you) if you should go up a size. It looks tight in several places. in both the front and back. You might need a broad back adjustment (I do) even if you go up a size. If you don't mind doing another muslin, I would go up a size and see which fit is better.
This is off topic but this looks like a pattern that would work for the March fitted shirt contest. Are you thinking of entering?

MrsCharisma
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Intermediate
Minnesota USA
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In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:13 PM

I'm totally up for another muslin as getting a perfect fitting button down is a goal of mine. I didn't know about it, can you post a link?

I wonder if I should do the 16 C or D??

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
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In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:16 PM

You're on my blog roll!! :)

I have a very broad back and I do think that's an adjustment I'll be having to make, especially as I hopefully grow into fitted jackets and making coat(s).

I'll take the tip on the bust line too.

Much appreciated!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Julia C
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Julia C  Friend of PR
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Nevada USA
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In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:17 PM

Why don't you try the 16D as there is quite a bit of bust tightness which does not look comfortable.

MrsCharisma
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MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 3277
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In reply to Julia C <<


Date: 2/21/13 9:24 PM

Thanks! I'm going to get more fabric this weekend and give it a go.

AND I bought tracing paper so if I need a different size I'll have it!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

CharltonSewing
CharltonSewing
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Massachusetts USA
Member since 2/16/13
Posts: 1
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Date: 2/21/13 10:27 PM

I don't think you should go up a size. The shoulders and neck look fine. I would remove the sleeves and concentrate on the fit of the torso.
I can't tell what the position is of the side seam so if you could raise your arm after the next revision, that would be helpful.
Starting above the bust I would add more room in the shape of a gradually increasing triangle to provide more room on the side of the princess seam closer to the arm. I would then do the same to a lesser extent to the room on the other side of the princess seam. If you use triangle shapes, that will help you accommodate the waist and hips. You may then need to slightly position for the princess seams but you'll have more room.
For the back, I would suggest a broad back adjustment of about two inches to start. You will also need a significant sway back adjustment - you may need to pinch out 3/4 of an inch for a total of 1.5 inches.
Then check to see how the side seams and the entire garment is hanging.
After you have the torso fitted, you'll need to raise the shoulders about a half an inch. You'll also need to accommodate for your left shoulder slope.
Good Luck!

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