Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > Suggestions and Fit Instruction ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Suggestions and Fit Instruction
Butterick 5678
MrsCharisma
starstarstar
MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 2402
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/20/13 11:23 PM

I am making Butterick 5678, version A (but with the full collar). I am using broadcloth as my muslin as I scored it for cheap.

I cut a 14 with a C cup.

My observations:
*I did NOT realize my left shoulder sloped downward so much compared to my right!!!!!

*The shirt is gaping but I don't know if that means I need the 14- D cup or to go up a size to a 16-C cup.

*The shirt is slightly snug across the shoulders but is perfect through the waist (my general problem with RTW button front shirts).

*My sleeve setting is a work in progress as are my princess seams. I believe I've since found good resources for these technical skills. I am going to do another muslin this weekend.

*My boobs look lopsided! Is this from the seams?

Butterick 5678


As always, help is appreciated!
-- Edited on 2/20/13 11:24 PM --

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Rosalaya
Rosalaya  Friend of PR
Beginner
Member since 11/20/12
Posts: 101
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 2/21/13 4:16 AM

Hi, good job on that shirt. Brill photos too.
I'm thinking that ....
1. Perhaps a small shoulder pad on that lower shoulder may be all you need (for the appearance of it).
2) And I think that if you increase your FBA that it would provide sufficient ease both through the bust and also stop the shirt gaping and it may ease the tightness across the shoulders.
3) Do you see the horizontal lines at your back waist? Google "fit that swayback" and look at the
1) Pattern Scissors Cloth @ buzzybeesworld blog
2) Gerties "blogforbettersewing"
3) Don McCunns blog
& for when you are doing trousers 4) coletterie
Because I think that reading them could help you better than I could explain it [hey, why re-invent the wheel??]
And I think you may have what they call 'a rotated arm' but someone else will have to help you with that.

MrsCharisma
starstarstar
MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 2402
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Rosalaya <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:28 AM

Thank you for taking the time :)

I'll check out those resources. I've wondered what "swayback" was when I saw people mention it.

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

nicegirl
starstarstarstar
nicegirl
Intermediate
DC USA
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1718
Login to reply to this post

Date: 2/21/13 9:43 AM

I am *not* a fit expert, but my suggestions are, in the order I'd try them:

-narrow the shoulders up to 1/2 inch. That should give you more movement.

-Broad back adjustment (my method is here

Once those are done, you probably will need a swayback adjustment, but I would do the BBA first because releasing some room across the shoulders should reduce the wrinkling right below them (I think).

I am not any kind of knowledgeable on the full bust adjustment, but it looks like you could use a tad more bust room and possibly could move the bust point up, based on this side view where it looks like the top is riding up under the armpit so in order to get the fullest part of the blouse over the fullest part of the bust. The other side doesn't look like that though, so it might be the uneven shoulder issue instead. Try slowly moving the shirt up and down over the bust; if there is a point that feels most roomy that is *not* where it sits naturally, bust point might be an issue.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 2230
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 2 members like this.
Date: 2/21/13 6:02 PM

I am wondering (as are you) if you should go up a size. It looks tight in several places. in both the front and back. You might need a broad back adjustment (I do) even if you go up a size. If you don't mind doing another muslin, I would go up a size and see which fit is better.
This is off topic but this looks like a pattern that would work for the March fitted shirt contest. Are you thinking of entering?

MrsCharisma
starstarstar
MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 2402
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Marie367 <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:13 PM

I'm totally up for another muslin as getting a perfect fitting button down is a goal of mine. I didn't know about it, can you post a link?

I wonder if I should do the 16 C or D??

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

MrsCharisma
starstarstar
MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 2402
Login to reply to this post

In reply to nicegirl <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:16 PM

You're on my blog roll!! :)

I have a very broad back and I do think that's an adjustment I'll be having to make, especially as I hopefully grow into fitted jackets and making coat(s).

I'll take the tip on the bust line too.

Much appreciated!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

Julia C
star
Julia C  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NV USA
Member since 7/1/07
Posts: 1091
Login to reply to this post

In reply to MrsCharisma <<


Date: 2/21/13 7:17 PM

Why don't you try the 16D as there is quite a bit of bust tightness which does not look comfortable.

MrsCharisma
starstarstar
MrsCharisma  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
MN USA
Member since 2/1/13
Posts: 2402
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Julia C <<


Date: 2/21/13 9:24 PM

Thanks! I'm going to get more fabric this weekend and give it a go.

AND I bought tracing paper so if I need a different size I'll have it!

------
Nakisha
www.sewcraftychemist.blogspot.com
Singer Talent 3321 | Brother 1034D

My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14/16 | Pants 18 | Skirts 16/18.

My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 34 W | 44 Hip

CharltonSewing
CharltonSewing
Intermediate
MA USA
Member since 2/16/13
Posts: 1
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 2/21/13 10:27 PM

I don't think you should go up a size. The shoulders and neck look fine. I would remove the sleeves and concentrate on the fit of the torso.
I can't tell what the position is of the side seam so if you could raise your arm after the next revision, that would be helpful.
Starting above the bust I would add more room in the shape of a gradually increasing triangle to provide more room on the side of the princess seam closer to the arm. I would then do the same to a lesser extent to the room on the other side of the princess seam. If you use triangle shapes, that will help you accommodate the waist and hips. You may then need to slightly position for the princess seams but you'll have more room.
For the back, I would suggest a broad back adjustment of about two inches to start. You will also need a significant sway back adjustment - you may need to pinch out 3/4 of an inch for a total of 1.5 inches.
Then check to see how the side seams and the entire garment is hanging.
After you have the torso fitted, you'll need to raise the shoulders about a half an inch. You'll also need to accommodate for your left shoulder slope.
Good Luck!

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> Suggestions and Fit Instruction

Merchants on PR
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro
Fee: $49.00
(Regular $49.00)
10 Clever Techniques To Help You Sew Like a Pro

Online Sewing Classes
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Serging Ahead with your 5 Thread Serger

Self Drafted Pattern 277-1001
photo
Review by Darla in P... on 9/17/04
Read Review

Victoria Jones Collection Men's Classic Hawaiian Businessman's Aloha Shirt
Victoria Jones Collection Men's Classic Hawaiian Businessman's Aloha Shirt

Details
Price: $14.25
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sewing Workshop Ann's Cardigan & Tank
Sewing Workshop Ann's Cardigan & Tank

Details
Price: $22.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Jacket + A-Line Skirt Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-3T )
Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Jacket + A-Line Skirt Digital Pattern ( Size 6m-3T )

Details
Price: $13.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Sis Boom Angie Dress Digital Pattern
Sis Boom Angie Dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $10.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

BurdaStyle Magazine 01-2013-123A Light Cowl Top
photo
Review by vchan38 on 1/1/13
Read Review

Simplicity 1882 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )
Simplicity 1882 Pattern ( Size 6-8-10-12-14 )

Details
Price: $16.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 4636 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )
Simplicity 4636 Pattern( Size ONE SIZE )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN