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back seat pulls down
RobA.
RobA.  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/24/13 10:28 AM

I took on making a pair of pull-on pants (Simplicity 2155) and with help from everyone here and some links various folks here provided, (and several muslins), they fit really well when I am standing up and walking. When I sit, however, the back pulls down several inches, to the extent that I had better be wearing pretty underwear. I improved the fit earlier by extending the point at the inner seam (not the right way to say it, but it was a crotch adjustment). So the back seam no longer explodes While it is still a bit snug across the back, the big issue is the way the seat pulls down. I can't find that problem in various sources on fitting pants. Any ideas?

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Rob

clothingengineer
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In reply to RobA. <<


Date: 2/25/13 10:17 AM

You could add some height to the crotch curve at the top instead of at the inseam, though it might mess up the fit if you are happy with the way things are now. Maybe you just need to make the rise longer?

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-- Anne
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LauraTS
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Date: 2/25/13 10:25 PM

You need a longer back rise. There's a difference between crotch depth and crotch length - the Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing has a great section on this and how to measure yourself and alter patterns, if you happen to have it available to you.

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Lindy Ann
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In reply to RobA. <<
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Date: 2/26/13 11:01 AM

Rob,

I've struggled with the same issue for years (in RTW too). I've tried many ways to fix this, without good results. Recently, from PR, I've figured it out. I'm pasting in below a piece below from Peggy Sagers. You can find the longer discussion under the PR "knowledge base" tab, then search Pants fitting. This is a "chat transcript" with Peggy Sagers.

You can find more details about this method (slash from CB to side seams and spread -- I add an inch) from other places in the PR knowledge base or Peggy Sagers website. By the way, I was excited to find that the same simple technique can be used on skirts, so that they hang straight, without pulling to the front or back.

So here's Peggy's explanation:

5.I have a slightly full derriere - size 12, but well rounded. It seems that the Front crotch of my pants is always too long, with the Back crotch being fine after adding about 1/2" to the back crotch point. Even after reading several sources, I can't quite figure out how to correct this. Scooping down from the front sides at the top, graduating to the center, never seems to be enough. What am I missing?

Your missing how to correctly change the crotch length. You should never change the inseam point where all three of these measurements come together. The three measurements that come together are the crotch length, the crotch depth, and the leg circumference. The three numbers come together at the point of the crotch. Whenever I change anything on a pant, I should never change that point because if I do that, I cannot change one without messing up the other two. I know what you have been told, but it is wrong. Once a pattern is drafted, if you need to change crotch depth, you do that by adding to or taking away from the waist. If you need to change crotch length, you do that by slashing from the center front or center back of the pant, horizontally to the side seam. If you need to change leg circumference, then you add to the side seam. But once the pattern is made and if you go changing the point, you will never get it right, because the chances are very slim that all three need to be changed that same amount. Does that make sense?

Peggy says elsewhere that you must, of course, make sure that you have enough total in the circumference to wrap around your body, and enough to sit down in. Adding circumference can be done just on the side seams.

Good luck!

RobA.
RobA.  Friend of PR
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TX USA
Member since 11/23/04
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In reply to Lindy Ann <<


Date: 2/26/13 12:57 PM

This is very helpful, thanks, because of course I have been trying to change all these measurements at once. I am going to try this.

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Rob

RobA.
RobA.  Friend of PR
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TX USA
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Date: 2/26/13 6:36 PM

After trying just about everything, I did the Full Butt adjustment (never thought I had a butt at all) and voila -- easy movement in the pants, but a crotch that was suddenly too long. So with Peggy's advice in mind, I am going back to the original pattern. I am going to shorten the pants above the hip (adjusting the crotch length that way) and do the FBA, and see what the muslin looks like.

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Rob

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 2/26/13 6:49 PM

In this case FBA is Full Butt Adjustment and not Full Bust Adjustment??

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Nancy K
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In reply to RobA. <<


Date: 2/26/13 7:00 PM

It would be better if you posted a picture, or several side and back to pinpoint why your pants are dropping in the back. I have this issue because I have a low rear end. If I add to the waist I get a saggy seat. I found that you need to add where you need it, and this can be done after you've sewn your pants, you need to scoop out the crotch in back from just behind the inseam, lowering the corner and blending back into the cb seam.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

RobA.
RobA.  Friend of PR
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TX USA
Member since 11/23/04
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Date: 3/1/13 11:58 AM

I am learning SO much. Fitting pants can be so complicated but I am learning a whole lot about my body. I am an experienced knitter, and when I learned to knit socks I discovered very quickly that I had a high instep and needed to modify patterns for that. I put on a pair of RTW pants today that I would have said have a good fit and guess what: they pull down in back when I sit, the crotch is probably a bit too high, and they pull against my thigh when I walk! And the left side seam sit farther forward that the right side seam. So I am going to continue to work on fitting those pants with this new knowledge in mind. I have scooped out the crotch a bit and will make a muslin with that correction. And I am going to research ways of dealing with a full front thigh.

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Rob

woggy
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In reply to RobA. <<


Date: 3/1/13 1:33 PM

RobA.

I have no idea what shape you are so please do not be offended by my advice.

I am a senior citizen whose shaped has changed quite a bit in the last few years. I am not heavy but I am not slim. When standing, I have no problems with my pants. My pelvis is short (actual bone structure is short) but my fanny is long for my pelvis. The top of my pelvis tips forward and the top of my left pelvis is higher than the right top of my pelvis. There is also a twist in my pelvis.

The design of my pelvis has caused many, many fitting issues. The biggest one is when I sit, my pants pull down. I believe for some shapes the reason is because our body tissue spreads. If the pants are too slim in the torso, there is no room to allow your fanny and belly to spread in the pants especially if you are not using a stretch fabric. If the pants are too slim, your body tissue is going to pull the pants done in the back when you sit.

It is possible that your left and right fanny are not the same shape or size. My left fanny is one inch larger than my right fanny. The left side seam hangs completely different than the right side. My flat right fanny fills out the right side of the back torso of the pants completely differently than the left. You sides could be different in shape which is why the left side seam sits more forward than the right side seam.

If possible, while standing in your undies, eyeball where the center of your body is on your side. Measure from your side over to the center of your back for each side - in the middle of each fanny. Check the measuerments to see of your left side measuerment differs from the right side measurement. If so, you will need to make adjustments for this difference.

Woggy

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