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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pencil skirt puffiness ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pencil skirt puffiness
Fixing puffiness at the top of a pencil skirt?
Gyount
Gyount
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Subject: Pencil skirt puffiness--pics added Date: 3/3/13 9:26 PM

I made the skirt from simplicity 2154Pattern review, and it's puffing out at the top underneath and to the sides of the darts. Now I remember this is why I've never owned a store bought one either--they all do this on me.

I'm not sure what's causing the puff. I feel like maybe there's too much fullness in the top area (under the waistband--the waist fits fine), as I can pull it pretty far out from my body. Then the skirt gets tight across my thighs, which are very muscular and a bit prominent. Like, it's not terrible, but its noticeably snugger there (though not wrinkling Edit: Yes, it is wrinkling across the thighs), and I definitely plan try using a smaller seam allowance in that area to create a bit more room. My hunch is that the puff up top isn't really related to the thigh issue, though.

Editing to add pics:

Pencil probs

Pencil probs


-- Edited on 3/4/13 5:23 PM --
-- Edited on 3/4/13 5:24 PM --
-- Edited on 3/4/13 5:32 PM --

PattyE
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Date: 3/3/13 11:18 PM

Do you think you need to lengthen and maybe widen the darts?

Irina Grace
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Date: 3/4/13 0:25 AM

It is hard to diagnose w/o a picture....

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tigergirl
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Date: 3/4/13 1:39 AM

I used to have this problem a lot with RTW pants and skirts when I had a very flat stomach (no longer the case). Now the problem I generally have is puffiness on the sides between the saddle bags and waist - I don't have a hip curve to speak of, it's pretty much a straight, diagonal line from waist to upper thighs.

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Gyount
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In reply to PattyE <<


Date: 3/4/13 5:36 PM

Quote: PattyE
Do you think you need to lengthen and maybe widen the darts?

Maybe? I am just clueless. I can sew it together, but fitting mystifies me.
Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 3/4/13 5:42 PM

It's hanging up a bit on your thighs, but also I think you need to shorten it between the waist and the thighs, by maybe an inch. Just fold the pattern to remove about an inch about halfway between waist and thighs, and true up the seam lines. At the same time, you can add about a quarter inch on each side seam line at the level of the thighs, front and back. That will give you an inch extra room.

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Debbie

sewdance
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Date: 3/4/13 6:48 PM

Try what Debbie has suggested. I think this will improve the fit immensely. Essentially your moving the width up a bit and adding the additional inch at the thigh will allow the skirt to hang more gracefully.

You may also need to lengthen your back darts slightly but I would adjust that during fitting if necessary.

Anne
-- Edited on 3/4/13 6:49 PM --

Lindy Ann
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Date: 3/4/13 6:59 PM

I've had similar fit issues, and usually it comes down to needing substantially more fabric to go around the butt and thigh area. I can't tell from your pictures just how much more you need in that area, but the clue is that the side seam is not quite vertical. When you have enough in the circumference at every level, the side seam should hang vertically, not pulled either to the front or the back. When I have my skirt too tight, that side seam is wavy. I also get that puffed out look that you saw.

Gyount
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<
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Date: 3/4/13 7:24 PM

Thanks! Dumb question--do I need to take the same amount out of the back pattern piece as well?

Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 3/4/13 9:00 PM

Yes. And you need to lay the front and back pieces on top of reach other after you do the adjustment so you can see that the side seams will match.
-- Edited on 3/4/13 9:02 PM --

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