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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Burda length sizing

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Burda length sizing
aussie mem
aussie mem  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/4/13 10:52 PM

Can someone help with using length sizes with Burda. I have read here to choose shoulder size by neck measurement but what do you use if your front length fits the size 46 and BWL and Neck are size 52. Also the apex point fits size 46. Do you fold out the amount on the front above the armhole or do you trace a size 46 at the front shoulder and neck and size 52 at back?
Thanks
Mary

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GBK
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In reply to aussie mem <<


Date: 3/5/13 0:14 AM

Excellent question, and I'm interested in the answer, too.

To me, using size 52 and making adjustments to the front piece sounds reasonable. As you suggested, I would fold out the extra length between shoulder and apex point for starters. This alteration would need to be transferred to the front sleeve cap.
It may be worthwhile whipping up a muslin at that point to see how the bodice fits in the front and make any further alterations on the muslin. It wouldn't be a horizontal fold, I'd think, but one that tapers to nothing at the side seams?

Good luck!

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aussie mem
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Date: 3/5/13 3:55 AM

I guess I wont know until I try. I am wanting to get a basic shirt so I will start with that and see how it goes.

marymary86
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In reply to aussie mem <<


Date: 3/5/13 8:08 AM

Let us know how it goes!

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Mary


Nancy K
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In reply to aussie mem <<
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Date: 3/5/13 3:38 PM

I use my upper bust measurement and make an fba, since I am a DD cup size. You do not use length to choose a pattern, only circumference. You wouldn't fold out the pattern to make your bust point match the pattern, you'd move the bust dart up or down or the shaping in a princess seam up or down. Your bust point does not have any relation to the overall length of a pattern. I think that you need to get a good fitting book. A size 46 at the front will not fit a size 52 in back. You are going to have to learn some basic pattern alterations skills. I suggest that you make a muslin to start. There are a number of good fitting books out there. the Palmer Pletsch book, Fit For any Body is a good place to start.

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aussie mem
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Date: 3/5/13 11:32 PM

Thanks Nancy K. I have many fitting books and have used them frequently. I have just always wondered with Burda what to do with the length measurements they list. Obviously then from what you are saying they aren't relative except to let you know what they are. You actually only use the width measurements when deciding on the pattern. If I go by high bust I would use size 48 but if I went by neck size I am 52 size. Hence my query I guess. Will the neck be too small etc. I also have broad shoulders. I havent used Burda for a long time. I am in the process of tracing off the pattern so will have a little play with it.

Vintage Joan
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In reply to aussie mem <<


Date: 3/21/13 9:39 AM

Just seeing this now -- sorry -- but Burda seems to want you to take measurements of each part of your body, then trace the sizes (SIZES) that you are. I.e., trace the neck to fit the size your neck is, then slide your marker over and trace the rest in whatever other sizes you are, transitioning between sizes as you go.

-- Edited on 3/21/13 9:41 AM --

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Nancy K
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In reply to aussie mem <<


Date: 3/21/13 8:35 PM

The length measurements tell you where in a Burda draft the bust point and waist are located and helps you adjust to fit your body.
If you used your neck measurement the pattern would be too big for your upper body. It's much easier to enlarge your neck then adjust your upper body.

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