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Underlining for pastel pink wool jacket
Underling and Tailoring
MochaB
MochaB
Member since 2/8/09
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Date: 3/9/13 1:52 PM

I am getting ready to make a pastel pink wool blazer. It isn't a true wool flannel, but it has a similar drape. I have sewn test seams on some scraps, and the seams allowances are definitely going to show if I make it up as it is. Also, I would love to use a pretty off-white print with pink and brown spots to really make it special, and the print will show if I do that.

The obvious answer is underlining, but with what? I am worried about cotton batiste wrinkling under the wool, even thought the wool will be dry-cleaned. I don't know if fusible underlining would be a good idea. I thought about silk organza, but it seems too light for this job.

Any suggestions? I plan to use a classic pattern so I can have this jacket in my closet for years, and I had searched a long time for this color. I want to make sure I get it right.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 3/9/13 2:01 PM

I would say it depends on the the drape and body you want your finished jacket to have. I have underlined both a dress and a jacket. Both times because my fashion fabric didn't have enough body or thickness (for warmth) for the effect I was looking for.

I used a wool tweed to underline my jacket (fashion fabric was trouser weight wool) and another wool (similar to tweed) for the dress underlining.

I will say as a word of caution when using underlining, make sure you trim back the underlining at the seams, otherwise they will be very bulky. It also takes more time to press and baste everything.

Having said that, if you have finally found the perfect fashion fabric, its well worth the extra effort of underlining it to create the perfect mix of qualities you are looking for.

May I wish you the best of luck, and I hope the above is of help to you.

ValerieJ
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ValerieJ  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/9/13 2:35 PM

Silk organza?

MochaB
MochaB
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In reply to ValerieJ <<


Date: 3/10/13 1:06 AM

I thought about that, but I am worried about how to prepare it. How should I pre-shrink it?

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to MochaB <<


Date: 3/10/13 11:29 AM

Quote: MochaB
I thought about that, but I am worried about how to prepare it. How should I pre-shrink it?

Steam iron is the best way, just like your wool. It can be washed but it can go limp and harder to work with. Just steam iron it with light pressure on the iron. It's my favorite material to use as a press cloth.

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MochaB
MochaB
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Date: 3/22/13 0:20 AM

Thanks, Doris. I will try that. I was thinking about sewing together a test piece out of scraps after I cut everything out and then having it dry cleaned to see what happens.

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to MochaB <<


Date: 3/22/13 11:36 AM

The classic underlining is silk organza and the best price for it is on Susan Khalje's website. She sell white or black in 54" width for $10 last time I looked.
This would be my choice. The other choice, but it will make the jacket warmer, is to use well washed white cotton flannel. This will give body, loft and definitely not let your lining show through.
No you should not preshrink the silk organza. Not that it isn't washable, because it is, but it will soften it too much.
-- Edited on 3/22/13 11:37 AM --

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