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Forum > Fitting Woes > High Hip Adjustment ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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High Hip Adjustment
on Princess Seamed Dress S4014
amcartolano
amcartolano
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/30/08
Posts: 5
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Date: 3/10/13 11:46 AM

I am having difficulty grasping the concept of the high hip adjustment to a princess seamed dress pattern. I have made the adjustment on the muslin but my difficulty comes when I try to transfer the adjustment back to paper.

I have marked it on the pattern after making a bust adjustment and a bodice length adjustment then the high hip wedge adjustment.

When I place the high hip adjustment do I open the slash to the top and add it into the bodice or do I open it into the bottom and add it into the skirt?

When I open it up into the bodice it causes a 2" change in grainline shifting the entire bodice over huge amounts. Lots of redrawing and measuring.

When I open the slash into the bottom or skirt area it throws off the grainline a huge amount as well. But drawing the new side seams appears to be less involved.

I so wish someone would do a visual/video on this process from start to finish.

Any help appreciated.

simplystitches
simplystitches
New York USA
Member since 2/12/06
Posts: 1507
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Date: 3/10/13 1:00 PM

From Fast Fit by Sandra Betzina- page 99
Princess seams need to be let out to fit smoothly over the high hip and contour in to the waist. Allow for wider sa's when cutting.
Shortened version-
Machine baste at actual sa's. Open the sa about 2" above the waist, try on inside out and repin back seam so there is enough fabric to go over hip smoothly.

No length add, only width so no grain line change.

HTH
Debbie

amcartolano
amcartolano
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/30/08
Posts: 5
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Date: 3/10/13 6:57 PM

Thanks. I will give it a go. I tend to over complicate things!

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to amcartolano <<


Date: 3/10/13 8:03 PM

You need to make this adjustment where you need it, ie the hip. You redraw the grain line using the original line at the hem and continuing it up to replace the skewed grain line. If your pattern does not have the grainl ines drawn in from top to bottom, they rarely are, then make sure that before you do anything you extend your grain lines. The grainline must be perpendicular to the floor unless of course you are using a bias grain.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

amcartolano
amcartolano
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/30/08
Posts: 5
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Date: 3/11/13 2:44 PM

The other issue I have is there is a full bust adjustment and a bodice adjustment in length only. It is minimal at the bust 3/16" and 3/4" at the waist. I have made those adjustments top to bottom. I have gotten myself in such a muddle with this!

I am considering waving my white flag ...

amcartolano
amcartolano
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/30/08
Posts: 5
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Date: 3/11/13 2:45 PM

Oh, the high hip 1" adjustment.

amcartolano
amcartolano
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/30/08
Posts: 5
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Date: 3/13/13 5:06 PM

Thought you might like to know, I have persisted and I think I have cracked it! Will post an image when I get the muslin together. Thanks again for the help.

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