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fitted blouse - need help, please
attempting to fit KS 2966
novicesewist
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novicesewist  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/10/13 7:06 PM

Hi All,
I was thinking about entering the fitted blouse contest, so am attempting to fit a (semi) fitted blouse. I was going to use this gingham fabric as my real blouse, but could not for the life of me get it all to line up, (I couldn't get the fabric to be perfectly on grain) so it is a muslin. Other mistakes made are that I assembled the collar wrong, so the interfacing shows on the outside.

My husband looked at the blouse, and he thinks it looks pretty good. However, I see: the bust dart is too high for my bust, and needs to be lowered. Side
And as far as it feels: it feels too tight across the back and upper arms when I move my arms forward.
I think I remember reading somewhere not to worry about that, because who runs around with their arms out in front of them, but it bothers me even sitting down to type this. In any case, I would like to fix the "feel" of the blouse, and don't know how. Back, with arms forward
Also, I think the sleeve looks like it is twisted, and I don't know what to do about that either.Twisted sleeve?
Any and all comments and suggestions gratefully accepted.
Thanks,
Judy
Flickr set

eta: KS 2966
-- Edited on 3/10/13 7:09 PM --

marymary86
marymary86
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In reply to novicesewist <<


Date: 3/10/13 7:12 PM

Your blouse is going to be so pretty!!

I always need a broad back alteration and it's easy to do.

I've been going by Fit for Real People and they recommend that you do that alteration first.

I'd cheat for the dart needing to be lowered and go get a good bra fitting. You'll end up with new bras that are to die for!! Just a thought ...

I haven't gotten to sleeves yet. And I'm not very experienced with fitting so I look forward to reading what others have to say.

Again - you're going to end up with a really nice blouse. Isn't it great to have DH's who will help with our fitting? The photos help a lot in my opinion.

------
Mary


rosehatten
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rosehatten  Friend of PR
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In reply to novicesewist <<


Date: 3/11/13 6:12 AM

Hi Judy,
I'm currently working my way through the same sleeve problem, and it apparently comes from the fact that the sleeve cap needs more height. If you open the shoulder/sleeve seam for about 3 inches on each side of the shoulder seam, the wrinkles disappear, and the amount of arm showing is the amount you have to add to the cap.

I found a helpful article in Threads issue 118 by Sarah Veblen. And you can probably find some pictures of the alteration in your fitting books or my dear friend Google. LOL

Its a cute blouse; will be great when you get the adjustments done.

HTH,
Rose

Nancy K
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In reply to novicesewist <<


Date: 3/11/13 10:04 AM

There are several minor changes you can make to make this fit better.
You have sloping shoulders. The right one more so than the left. That's why you have those drag lines in the back shoulders. Pin up the shoulder until the drag line disappear. You will have to sew the underarm lower the same amount you lower the shoulder. Clip into the curve at the underarm.
You have a forward shoulder. Add to the back shoulder at the seam line the amount needed to get your shoulder point and the blouses at the same point. Usually 1/2" more or less. Blend back so that it disappears at the neck seam. Remove the same amount from the front shoulder.
The sleeve will move forward that amount, lining up the shoulder seam with the mark on your sleeve.
This may or may not be enough. You may have to flatten the back sleeve cap and add some fullness to the front curve. I have a very forward right shoulder and it was always binding. I took a pattern drafting class with KK and this is what he did when he fitted my sleeve into my sloper. My right is quite a bit more than the left and I have to make a full pattern to accommodate the difference. This is why you are getting that twisting in the sleeve. It also may need more adjustment. Mark your seamlines so that they show on the outside, Sew for 3" on either side of the side seam on the sleeve. Then pin the rest, folding under the sas. Pin in place adjusting until you have no twisting and you can raise your arm at the side, not forward, 45 degrees is what to aim for in a woven fabric. I would also add a 1" sas to the sleeve cap so that you can have room to add for the front curve. Make sure that you clip into your sas at the underarm so that it fits. Mark where you pin the sleeve by taking a pencil across the seam all around the sleeve cap. This will tell you where your optimal sleeve seam is on both body and sleeve cap.
I also think that your shoulder is a bit too wide. It should fall a finger width past your shoulder bone.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

novicesewist
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 3/11/13 2:56 PM

Wow! You have great eyes!
I will tackle these changes, but wanted to ask if you think I should make the back wider, either first, or at all. MaryMary suggested I start there. I measured my back (armpit crease to armpit crease) and it is ~ 1 & 3/4 inches wider than the pattern at that point.
I will have to add to the SA all over for adjustments, as this is a KS pattern with only 1/4 SAs.
Thanks for your help.
judy

novicesewist
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In reply to marymary86 <<


Date: 3/11/13 2:58 PM

Thanks for your quick input!
When I showed my husband the shirt and told him I thought the darts were too high, he laughed and said maybe my boobs were too low! (Don't worry, he's not a jerk, he was just goofing around)
This is a pretty well fitting bra, so I think I am just low busted. Gravity sucks!
I did have him measure my back, and it is wider than the pattern. So will work on that tonight.
judy

novicesewist
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In reply to rosehatten <<


Date: 3/11/13 2:59 PM

Thanks,
When I get home, I'll see if I have that issue (I have the threads DVD, but it only goes so far). Otherwise, I do have Sarah's book. Do you suppose it will be in there?
Judy

rosehatten
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In reply to novicesewist <<


Date: 3/12/13 7:02 AM

Hi Judy,
Yes, she has some pictures of the sleeve cap issue on page 177. The Threads article is more detailed, and she has a companion article in Threads #117 that addresses the armscye.

I was able to fix my sleeve by leveling the HBL that Sarah discusses.

Rose

SVN
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Date: 3/12/13 8:55 AM

I also have problems with the forward reach pulling at the sleeves. I've found that it's not a broad back issue in my case, but the shape of the back armhole. Sewing patterns tend to have very odd-shaped armholes!
In your last picture, do you see where the sleeve is stuck just behind the armpit - that causes pulling across the back!
If you google Kathleen Fansella how to fix an armhole, you'll get a good visual of how a well-fitted armhole fits: it's smoother, closer to the body; and often higher, too.

gramma b
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Date: 3/14/13 8:59 AM

Anyone else trying the new S1693?
I can get good results with button-downs in wovens, but the
pullovers vex me. One review on here so far with a placket insted of back seam.
The neckline too high, straight-not fitted sides, straight-on darts
don't give any shape at the waist. I keep re-fitting a rayon but may be a wadder.

I have the Colette but not really my style, don't need "rigid" dress shells. I'm looking for more of the easy T/tank style for summer.

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