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Forum > Fitting Woes > Scoop neck T ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Scoop neck T
problems with neck and arms?
plumfan
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plumfan  Friend of PR
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Date: 3/11/13 0:12 AM

I'm working on a scoop neck T. The first thing I think I need to fix is the neck. For the front, I'm pretty sure I just need a smaller neckband, but the back sits lower on my neck than I am comfortable with. Should I just make the scoop more shallow on my back piece?

Then there is the back. I'm new to all this fitting stuff, what do all those lines around the armholes mean. I realize now looking at the picture that I do have my arms pulled forward a bit, is that creating the lines or is this a fit problem.

Finally the front. I was hoping I could get away with not doing a FBA, but I think, based on another T-shirt fitting thread that those wrinkles right under the arm/above the bust indicate a FBA?

Finally, I think I better add a bit at the side seams. Looking at the pics again, I'm not real happy with the way it shows my protruding belly.

Here are the pics. Any ideas?

photo

photo
-- Edited on 3/11/13 0:13 AM -- edited to fix pics and clarify
-- Edited on 3/11/13 0:16 AM --

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

Speech girl
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In reply to plumfan <<
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Date: 3/11/13 7:30 PM

The top does look a bit big in the neck and shoulders--maybe starting with a smaller size and doing the FBA?

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Debbie Lancaster
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Date: 3/11/13 8:52 PM

As Speech girl says, you need a smaller size at the neck and shoulders, which will also help to raise the back neckline.

You have sloping shoulders, which are part of what's causing those diagonal drag lines on the shoulder blades. You may also have a broad back or forward shoulders, which would add to the drag lines.

I would adjust those things first, then see how it goes. Nancy K has an explanation of how to fix the sloping shoulder thing as follows in a different thread:

"You have sloping shoulders which is why you have those drag lines. Try pinning the shoulders and see if they disappear. Then, the amount you lower the shoulder must be removed from the underarm or they will be too tight and the sleeve cap will have too much ease."

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Debbie

sewsally
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Date: 3/12/13 0:41 AM

For the neckline -- you could put on a wider band or make it any shape you want.

I also agree with the sloping shoulders analysis in the above post.

diane s
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Date: 3/12/13 12:17 PM

If you need more room in the sides after the fba, taper the side seam allowance out, from from just under the arm to the hem.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

plumfan
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In reply to Debbie Lancaster <<


Date: 3/12/13 10:54 PM

Thanks everyone. I never would of thought of a sloped shoulder fix. I've got a new shirt cut out and I will sew it together tomorrow to see how the adjustments work out.

I used my Singer Perfect Plus book to guide me on how to slope the shoulder while still keeping the arm the same size. I also did a FBA using this tutorial http://blog.mariadenmark.com/?p=1046

I'm a busty girl and I really couldn't close the dart on the side and get it to just move to the center like she did so I cut from the fold line to the apex and sort of split the dart. Half the dart will be in the center and half the dart will be on the side. I don't plan to actually sew either one. I guess I'll see if it works.

Any suggestions for moving a side dart to a center dart for a busty girl? I still haven't quite got my head around how to move darts from one place to another yet.

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

KathySews
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Date: 3/12/13 11:10 PM

We have kind of similar body shape. I was also surprised to learn that a sloping shoulder adjustment would fix some of my fit problems. Along with using a size for my neck/shoulders selected by using my high bust measurement. That has helped a lot.

I have made tee shirts with and without darts. I have now settled on doing an fba but not sewing the dart in. Instead I take up the dart by putting 2-3 small pleats into the side of the tee.

Another thought: When fitting a new top pattern, I cut extra wide side seams to allow adjustments to get the top to fit the way I want.

Good luck. It took me 3 tries to get a decent fitting tee shirt.

plumfan
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In reply to KathySews <<


Date: 3/12/13 11:44 PM

I'll be very happy if it only takes me 3 tries

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Stash in as of Feb. 1, 2014 - 43
2014 Items finished for me - 12
2014 Items for others - 9
Approximate yardage used - 40

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