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True ing up a pattern
Grain linen
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 3/11/13 6:37 PM

Hi, I'm confused! I'm doing Kenneth King's Jeanious class and at the stage where we true up the draft.

We first drew the lengthwise and crosswise grain on our draft paper, transferred the pattern to the paper matching the grainlines on our fabric pattern to those on the paper. We then needed to measure our garment to make sure that the draft measurements match the actual garment that is copied.

At this point Kenneth advises that if your out seam on the garment is, say, 1 inch longer than your copied draft then you add 1/2 inch at the waist and the other half at the hem. Ok - I get that so far.

My confusion is that if I have the inseam correct and don't add to that I will then draw the hemline of the pants to connect the new (added) length of the out seam to the existing inseam.

I'm thinking then it will make the hemline of the pants off grain with the crosswise grain and then I would need to correct by marking the new grain line lengthwise.......?

I posted the short version of this question on the class site and Kenneth emailed to say that it wouldn't change the grain line. I know he's the expert but I'm just double checking here so that there's not a crossed wire.

Would appreciate if anyone can help me out.

Thanks
sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

couturemom
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couturemom
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Date: 3/17/13 6:44 AM

I agree that's a bit confusing. I would think the hem has to be parallel to the cross grain. Let us know if you have any updates!

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 3/17/13 9:00 AM

I'm not familiar with Mr. King's methods, but Sandra Betzina has a good way of truing up pants on her Crafty's class. It's the same method I've been using...I don't know what book it's from, but my pages were copied from a spiral bound book(a friend sent this to me). It's called "Balancing a Pants Pattern".

Short version: On the front pattern piece, you draw a horizonal line from side to crotch point, measure the half way point and mark. You can measure from the cutting lines or the seam lines, but must be consistant. A few inches from the bottom hem, draw another line, seam to seam, measure the half way point...mark.
Draw a line from the top mark all the way down connecting to the bottom mark.

The back of the pants is done a bit differently. You draw the line as you did on the front (side to crotch point). You measure in 1/2 inch from the side + 1/2 of the front measurement. Do the hem line as in the front and connect the center marks of the crotch line and the hem line...Hope this makes some sense

rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/3/13 6:12 AM

thanks for the reply. I have done Sandra's class on Craftsy and had forgotten all about the grain line info.

I've had the jeans on the back burner for a couple of weeks but am about to get them out again. I'll use her method and compare the existing grain line with the one that I draw. That will be my answer!

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

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