SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > True ing up a pattern

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
True ing up a pattern
Grain linen
rag doll
star
rag doll  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Australia
Member since 1/31/06
Posts: 584
Send Message

      



Date: 3/11/13 6:37 PM

Hi, I'm confused! I'm doing Kenneth King's Jeanious class and at the stage where we true up the draft.

We first drew the lengthwise and crosswise grain on our draft paper, transferred the pattern to the paper matching the grainlines on our fabric pattern to those on the paper. We then needed to measure our garment to make sure that the draft measurements match the actual garment that is copied.

At this point Kenneth advises that if your out seam on the garment is, say, 1 inch longer than your copied draft then you add 1/2 inch at the waist and the other half at the hem. Ok - I get that so far.

My confusion is that if I have the inseam correct and don't add to that I will then draw the hemline of the pants to connect the new (added) length of the out seam to the existing inseam.

I'm thinking then it will make the hemline of the pants off grain with the crosswise grain and then I would need to correct by marking the new grain line lengthwise.......?

I posted the short version of this question on the class site and Kenneth emailed to say that it wouldn't change the grain line. I know he's the expert but I'm just double checking here so that there's not a crossed wire.

Would appreciate if anyone can help me out.

Thanks
sue

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

couturemom
star
couturemom
Advanced
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 113
Send Message

      



Date: 3/17/13 6:44 AM

I agree that's a bit confusing. I would think the hem has to be parallel to the cross grain. Let us know if you have any updates!

JTink
star
JTink
Intermediate
Member since 4/20/08
Posts: 6217
online now
Send Message

      



Date: 3/17/13 9:00 AM

I'm not familiar with Mr. King's methods, but Sandra Betzina has a good way of truing up pants on her Crafty's class. It's the same method I've been using...I don't know what book it's from, but my pages were copied from a spiral bound book(a friend sent this to me). It's called "Balancing a Pants Pattern".

Short version: On the front pattern piece, you draw a horizonal line from side to crotch point, measure the half way point and mark. You can measure from the cutting lines or the seam lines, but must be consistant. A few inches from the bottom hem, draw another line, seam to seam, measure the half way point...mark.
Draw a line from the top mark all the way down connecting to the bottom mark.

The back of the pants is done a bit differently. You draw the line as you did on the front (side to crotch point). You measure in 1/2 inch from the side + 1/2 of the front measurement. Do the hem line as in the front and connect the center marks of the crotch line and the hem line...Hope this makes some sense

rag doll
star
rag doll  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Australia
Member since 1/31/06
Posts: 584
Send Message

      



In reply to JTink <<


Date: 4/3/13 6:12 AM

thanks for the reply. I have done Sandra's class on Craftsy and had forgotten all about the grain line info.

I've had the jeans on the back burner for a couple of weeks but am about to get them out again. I'll use her method and compare the existing grain line with the one that I draw. That will be my answer!

------
Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> True ing up a pattern

Merchants on PR

Patterns from the Past


vintage sewing patterns
Deals!

Reconstructing History


Reconstructing History
Web site

Nature's Fabrics


Natural & Organic Fabrics
Deals!

Elliott Berman Textiles


Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Style Arc sewing dress patterns


Patterns That Fit
Web site

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Create a Jacket Muslin
Create a Jacket Muslin

Register

Put it on the Bias
Put it on the Bias

Register

Simplicity 9499

photo
by: JUNIPERJUN...

Review
Butterick 4954

photo
by: AClockwork...

Review

Pattern

Christine Jonson Tie-Back Top

Christine Jonson Tie-Back Top

Buy Now
Christine Jonson Cuff Pant

Christine Jonson Cuff Pant

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.