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Beginner on sleeves
Putting in a sleeve
Robinwild
Robinwild
Member since 3/4/12
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Date: 3/12/13 10:55 AM

I am new to sewing and I am making a pair of pyjamas for my son. I am using Simplicity 8860. It is a pattern from the 1960's I think. I am having troubles with the short sleeves. This is what the pattern says, "With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole, placing center small dot at shoulder seam, matching remaining small dots. Pull up machine-stitching to fit. Baste, easting in fulness. Stitch. Press seam toward top, shrinking out fulness. Make flat-fell seam"
SO I had no clue how to do this or what it meant. I looked in a sewing book and it talked about making two rows of loose stitching, then pulling the threads to bunch it up a bit, then sewing it. Well, I tried that, and it was so bunched to get it to fit, there was no way I could sew it without having gathers and puckers.....it literally looks like a girl's puffed sleeve!! I am sure my 12 year old is not going to appreciate that! Please, can anyone help me? There is no one I know who sews......

Nancy K
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In reply to Robinwild <<
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Date: 3/12/13 2:22 PM

You shouldn't have to ease much for a pajama sleeve. Take a tape measure and measure both the armscye(armhole) and the sleeve cap. How much bigger is the sleeve cap than the armscye? That's the amount you'll need to ease. You are pulling too much up. Did it actually fit in the armscye? If so, move the sleeve up higher so that there is less ease. I mean that the seamline on the sleeve only becomes lower into the sleeve.

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Ms. McCall
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Date: 3/12/13 2:52 PM

Are you setting the sleeve in to an armhole where the side seam has already been sewn, or are you sewing it in flat?

As a beginner, sewing a sleeve in flat, before the side seams have been sewn will be much easier for you.

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marymary86
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In reply to Ms. McCall <<


Date: 3/12/13 3:14 PM

Quote: Ms. McCall
Are you setting the sleeve in to an armhole where the side seam has already been sewn, or are you sewing it in flat?



As a beginner, sewing a sleeve in flat, before the side seams have been sewn will be much easier for you.

I agree with this.

Just give it a try using a basting stitch and see how it goes. If the result pleases you, restitch using your regular stitch length.

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Mary


Robinwild
Robinwild
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Date: 3/12/13 3:28 PM

Okay, well, I am sewing the sleeve, which is sewn together into the armhole, which is sewn together. I think it might be easier open too.
I will try that. However, when I thought it was bunched an awful lot too.......but if I gathered it just a teeny bit, there was still way too much fabric to fit it in.

Robinwild
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Date: 3/12/13 3:29 PM

Oh, and Nancy, where exactly do I measure the armcap and the arm hole? I mean across where?

Thanks for everyone's help!

Vireya
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Date: 3/12/13 6:21 PM

If you are going to measure the armhole, remember that you have to measure the stitching lines, not the cut edges. Because they are curved shapes, the stitching line around the armhole will be longer than the cut edge, and on the sleeve it will be shorter. Don't make the mistake of thinking that the cut edges should be the same length as each other.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 3/12/13 8:20 PM

Vintage patterns had fuller sleeves and I detested them with a passion!

Sometimes you can ease the larger piece to fit the smaller piece buy placing the longer layer against the feed dogs.

The feed dogs move the bottom layer and the top layer tags along.

Match the ends, darts and dots and let the sewing machine do the rest.

I use a sewing awl to help keep the raw edges from slipping left or right as the layers feed under the presser foot.

And, do this before seaming the sleeve and side's of the top, which was another vintage PITA!

You can also lessen the fullness of the sleeve by removing approx 1" from the cap. Lay the fabric flat with the pattern on top matching the notches for back and front. Slide the pattern down 1" and recut, tapering out to nothing just above the notches.


-- Edited on 3/12/13 8:40 PM --

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Robinwild
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Date: 3/13/13 7:43 AM

Thanks for all the advice, I am going to attempt sleeve two today! There is so much I need to learn, it is overwhelming!

gramma b
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gramma b
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Date: 3/13/13 8:41 AM

There are good videos online for lots of techniques, so Google them too, will be like having a teacher over your shoulder!

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