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Forum > Fabrics and more... > Does the grain line indicator matter here? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Does the grain line indicator matter here?
A pattern with an ambiguous plan...
GwenH
GwenH
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California USA
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Date: 3/16/13 6:19 PM

This question is part pattern related, but really revolves around what options I have for fabric.

This McCall's t-shirt pattern McCall's 6566 has the side pieces of view D with the grainline parallel to the bottom edge of the shirt. This is the opposite of what I would general expect.

My question is this: Do they specify this simply to indicate this is what you do to get the stripes in two different directions (doh!) or is there a more subtle reason that view D would have the grainline like this.

BY the way, the back view of D is shown wrong, but I'm revising the pattern to look like the back in the line drawing. Danmar's review has a link to a series of pictures of her garment which show the patterns overlapping back (with her added cross straps).

I'm planning a color block version and wonder if there's any reason I can't just lay the side pices out with the bottom edge perpendicular to the selvage, which is the common way. One reason for perferring this is that the t-shirt knit has more stretch crosswise than lengthwise. While crosswise stretch won't matter for this oversized shirt, having the greater stretch lengthwise would seem to invite having it stretch out of shape and look droopy.

In the end, I'm probably worrying too much and it won't matter either way, but I'm really curious why McCall's felt the need to actually specify the grain in that direction.

Side note: I know grain can indication either direction, but when I look at the pattern instructions, it defines the grain as parallel to the selvage.

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to GwenH <<
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Date: 3/16/13 6:34 PM

Yes, they got the length wise grain of it going in the opposite of normal there, just so you can use the same striped fabric and get your stripes going in two different directions. Instead of having to buy two different kinds of striped fabric with stripes knit in differently. I think no other more sneaky reason for it at all.

Depending on your particular knit though, some knits will stretch or hang different of course depending on which way you cut them. That is up to you to choose and guess about. I think top is really so loose fitting, which way the stretch goes right there is not going to make any difference at all though, as to ever making the top too small to get on, or wear. If you make of two solid fabrics instead, you could cut it either way. I would just cut it though probably, in which ever way took me using up less fabric probably, and the amount of fabric it takes up to do either probably is listed different in the pattern layout.
-- Edited on 3/16/13 6:35 PM --

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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Date: 3/16/13 6:36 PM

It's for the stripes. I've sewn with knits where a part of the top was on the other grain, as a yoke for example. I would never put the entire top on that grain however.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

GwenH
GwenH
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In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 3/16/13 6:41 PM

Thanks, beauturbo!

You confirmed my suspicion, that they just felt the need to indicate how to get the stripes. I'm just going to go with laying it out the more normal way since I'm using plain fabric.

I'm with you on laying out for fabric conservation. I haven't used the actual layout on the pattern in a long time. I squeeze things on, only making sure to get things true to grain, whichever direction is used.

GwenH
GwenH
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 3/16/13 6:43 PM

Thanks, and good point GIButterfly. I didn't think about the fact that with part of the shirt on the less stretchy grain, it would keep the whole thing from stretching out.

You folks are so fast and helpful. I hardly will have had a break in working on the project!

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