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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Support for strapless bustier? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Support for strapless bustier?
Need help - the bodice is slipping!
penniee
penniee
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Date: 3/20/13 6:54 AM

Hi there :)

I'm making my formal dress for school and my bodice is going to be a bustier so that I don't have to wear a bra on the day. Basically, I want the bustier to be as strong and supportive as a bra because my skirt will be quite heavy as well.

I've got an underwire, but the bustier is still slipping down! Should I add more boning? Or perhaps the rubbery elastic that sometimes come with strapless dress to avoid 'slips' (btw, what are these called, and where can I get them?) Please, please, please help me!!!

I would also like to put an overlay lace on the bra cups, but I want the edge finished like the picture here. I want the lace to go over the cups, so that it sits on my bare skin

Can't wait to read your responses! I'm honestly as keen as a bean

Thanks again!!picture
-- Edited on 3/20/13 6:57 AM --

EleanorSews
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In reply to penniee <<


Date: 3/20/13 8:15 AM

If you look at the upper left of this page, just under the "tabs", there is search box. Type in bustier and select "boards". There are several informative discussions about bustiers, including bustier and corset comparisons which are about support and construction.

Does you dress have a waistline stay? This would help to carry more of the skirt weight at your waist. You can google this for info but it is basically a grosgrain ribbon sewn at the waist of the dress on the inside. It is loose about 2" in on either side of center back seam. You fasten it before zipping the dress. The idea is to have more of the weight of the skirt supported at your waist than to be dragging down the top or bodice.

------
"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

clothingengineer
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In reply to penniee <<


Date: 3/20/13 9:56 AM

You may need to just wear a bra under the dress. I've heard that sometimes it is asking too much to have the bustier support the weight of the dress AND support and shape your top half. I agree that you need to consider adding a waist stay if you haven't done so. You should also consider getting the ebook Bridal Couture. Bridal Couture shows the optimal placement of boning and goes into great detail on how to build the structure.
-- Edited on 3/20/13 9:57 AM --

------
-- Anne

penniee
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In reply to EleanorSews <<


Date: 3/20/13 11:31 PM

Hi thanks for your replyYes, I was planning on sewing a ribbon on the waistline, but on the outside as embellishment. Thanks for the advice about the search engine, I've found quite a few threads that will help :)

NonieA1
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Date: 3/21/13 4:56 AM

This post reminded me of my daughter's friend, Lori. She asked me to make her prom dress and it was to be strapless. I replied, "Really??" Lori was flat on top and I was, at that point, not as skilled working with "prom type" dresses. Let me tell you, there were enough bones in the bodice, that the bodice stood upright by it self. Lori loved the dress and it did not embarrass her that night. We both were lucky-I learned a lot about sewing "fancy" dresses and Lori was beautiful.

EleanorSews
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In reply to penniee <<
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Date: 3/21/13 8:44 AM

Quote: penniee
Hi thanks for your replyYes, I was planning on sewing a ribbon on the waistline, but on the outside as embellishment. Thanks for the advice about the search engine, I've found quite a few threads that will help :)

There is a major difference between a ribbon that is used as decorative trim on the outside of a dress, especially a formal with a heavy skirt, and an internal waistline stay which is essentially an engineering/construction item that helps to support the weight of the skirt. Hopefully that point was made in the various threads you have been studying.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Fictionfan
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Date: 3/21/13 7:57 PM

The bones are supported by the place they rest on your body, presumably at your waist or just over the pelvic bones. If the bones aren't long enough or if the waist stay (the inside ribbon that Eleanor mentioned) is not tight enough and at the right place on your body to support the bones, they will fall down to the place that does support them. If you happen to have a smaller hip than waist measurement, you may find that the place the bones fall to rest is below the waist.

The foundation of a house support the walls. The foundation support of the bustier is the waist stay and the part of your body where the bones fall to rest. The bones are the walls. The fashion fabric is just the decoration of the architectural support.

If you can breathe easily with the bustier closed, it's not tight enough. There should be no ease there or the foundation will fall to the wider part of your body where the circumference results in there being no ease.

HTH

------
Fictionfan

CM_Sews
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Date: 3/21/13 8:13 PM

For your consideration:

The How's and Why's of Waist Stays

Sewing a Waist Stay in a Full-Skirted Dress

Invisible Details of a Couture Garment - The Waist Stay (Burda Style) Read the comments; the author comments on the method above (sewing waist stay to waist seam allowance) vs. tacking the waist stay to the bodice seam allowances.

CMC
-- Edited on 3/21/13 8:19 PM --

penniee
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In reply to EleanorSews <<


Date: 3/25/13 0:22 AM

Hi again guys,

I've checked out waist stays and it sounds like an amazing idea! Thanks so much for all the helpI'm going to put boning on the bodice and attach a waist stay, hopefully it'll come out good :)

Thanks so much again!!

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