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Forum > Fitting Woes > problem with sliding backneck ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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problem with sliding backneck
Flod
Flod
Member since 4/27/10
Posts: 7
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Date: 3/27/13 12:27 PM

Dear sewers,

English is not my native language so forgive me for spelling or grammar errors..
I have a problem with a dress i'm making. I altered a pattern to be a pleated cowlneck with a moved shoulderseam to the front. To get a idea for the design cowlneck.
The fabric I used is a medium weight knit. I sewed the dress and fitted it but the backneck slides back with result that my sleevecaps sit wrong and the seam where the pleated cowl is sits at the shoulderseam.
I have to tuck at the front to set it to rights.

Yes, next time I will make a muslin...hahaha.
I think part of the problem is the weight off the dress, although I used cottontape to stabilise the waist seam.

How can I fix this?
Can I sew in a cotton tape from schoulder to shoulder and would that fix the problem?
Thank you for your time!

Renske

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
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In reply to Flod <<


Date: 3/27/13 2:01 PM

Can you post photos of what your dress looks like? It is easier to work out the problems if you can see it.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

Flod
Flod
Member since 4/27/10
Posts: 7
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Date: 3/27/13 3:08 PM

Hmm the dress is difficult to photograph.
I had to use ravelry for the photo's because I couldn't acces my flickr.
The first three are how I want it to be.
I see there some looseness in the back sleeve.
The last pictures are how the dress slides.
I feel a bit stupid that I have not made a muslim..grmph


-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:10 PM --




-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:17 PM --

-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:19 PM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:21 PM --
-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:24 PM --

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
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In reply to Flod <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:27 PM

Did you do a Full Bust Adjustment? It looks like when the cowl is in the proper position it is pulling across the side chest and across the upper arm, as if both are too tight.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

Flod
Flod
Member since 4/27/10
Posts: 7
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In reply to mgmsrk1 <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:37 PM

No, I thought about it but opted out because the size of the pattern was exactly my bust. I traced the front 1 size larger and the front of the sleeve.
Maby not that smart,but i thought that the cowl and the fabric would give enough room.
It is the first time I altered a pattern this much.
In the future i will definitly do a fba because I have a d cup.
-- Edited on 3/27/13 3:49 PM --

Flod
Flod
Member since 4/27/10
Posts: 7
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Date: 3/27/13 3:44 PM

Another strange thing is that when sewed up the front waistline dropped 2 inches..
LOL my brain hurts, I have to think very hard how to salvage this dress.

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
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In reply to Flod <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:49 PM

I can understand trying to skip it, it would seem that with all that extra fabric in front it would be ok.

To see if my guess was right put the dress where you want it and stretch your shoulders back if it pulls and slips to the back that is the problem.

You may be able to make it a bit better by taking apart the arms and easing a bit larger seam allowance to the front panel and taking in the back panel at the same time.

It's a cute dress and I like the idea of it. I'm saving the blog to try some day, I don't like most cowl necks but I like the look of the cowl extending across the chest.

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
Intermediate
Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
Send Message

      



In reply to Flod <<


Date: 3/27/13 3:59 PM

Kind of sound like some of the material that is meant to me in the neck is falling to the waist. Hmm, the adjustment of moving some of the shoulder piece to the back from the front should have kept the pieces balanced.

It is always best to do a muslin, I however almost never follow my own advice. ;)

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

Flod
Flod
Member since 4/27/10
Posts: 7
Send Message

      



Date: 3/27/13 4:04 PM

Thank you for your kind replies and compliment on the dress.
The problem is the FBA and I will try your solution. There is enough room in the back panel for it.
Next time I if I make a draped cowlneck I will do it the proper way with a darted bodice and slashing and sliding the cowlpart from the shoulderseam to the front and than upward and closing the darts etc..and a muslin. I know how to do it but wanted a uick result.

This time i just slashed horizontal and curled the armhole back. A quick hack i saw on the internet. I should have trusted my drafting book.
Next time I will make my own pattern because bought ones drive me nuts. I'm very tall and plussized with a narrow back an d cup. I have to adjust lenght of bodice, arms and ...do fba's. :}

edited to ad: Maby I have to sew down the pleats for a inch or more so the fabric will lift from the waist? hmm
-- Edited on 3/27/13 4:14 PM --

Mole Princess
Mole Princess
Member since 4/17/12
Posts: 309
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Date: 4/22/13 5:00 PM

Things slide back on me for a different reason--curved upper back and forward neck. You may have a bit of that. Back darts at neckline help keep things from sliding back if so.

What do others think?

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