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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Princess Seam ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Princess Seam
Having trouble making the seam
MandMMom
MandMMom
Advanced Beginner
New Jersey USA
Member since 3/2/13
Posts: 19
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Date: 3/29/13 10:57 PM

Hi! I'm making Simplicity 1667 view D for my daughter. The princess seam doesn't line up under the arm. Is there a trick to sewing it? Thanks

Hauteaway
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Hauteaway  Friend of PR
Beginner
California USA
Member since 9/5/10
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In reply to MandMMom <<
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Date: 3/30/13 2:52 AM

Tell me if I've got this right: you are sewing the seam from the hem toward the armhole and when you get there it doesn't line up? How large is the deviation? I'm only guessing here, but when sewing a curve you have to account for the different shapes of the two sides. For instance, over the fullness of the bust, the side panel of a princess seamed bodice is convex (curved like the outside of a contact lens) and the middle panel is either slightly concave (curved like the inside of a contact lens), or straight, or angled. While the seam length will be the same - because it's one seam! - the lengths of the edges of the pieces are different, so you have to ease along the curves. The way I do this is to pin both ends, then any markings, then ease the lengths between the ends and markings, then sew. If you're doing all that, and the pieces just don't fit, then visual old me would love a photo of the problem!

ETA: I know everyone knows how to get there, but I'm a real sucker for having quick links, so here: Simplicity 1667
-- Edited on 3/30/13 2:54 AM --

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YAN: Yet Another Nancy

Mufffet
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Mufffet  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Vermont USA
Member since 8/14/05
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In reply to MandMMom <<
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Date: 3/30/13 9:05 AM

I always sew from the top down. If you match those pieces at the top - the armhole, and the ease as Hauteaway says, then if it isn't even at the bottom, that's no problem because you are going to trim that anyway to do you hemming!Also, sometimes when sewing together a princess seam, I have had a little sort of point/tooth shaped piece of fabric left on top due to different curvature in the pattern pieces. I just trim it to the rest of the armhole. It all turns out right! Now, some of this that I am saying isn't orthodox sewing as in lessons, but it works. The easing is the thing that you will learn as you go along - it is at first painstaking, but it comes. Good luck and happy sewing and share a picture when you are done! Here's a review of a Lutterloh princess shirt I made:

Princess Seamed shirt
-- Edited on 3/30/13 9:07 AM --

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"Be kind whenever possible. It is always possible."
--Dalai Lama

I have sewing machines

schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
Member since 12/5/06
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Date: 3/30/13 9:45 AM

This tutorial made a huge difference in the way I handle princess and other curved seams. (I hope it is still accessible to non-Threads Insiders!)

Good luck!

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

JudieL
JudieL  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 12/27/12
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Date: 3/30/13 9:58 AM

If your markings at the beginning and end of the actual princess part of the seam line up there shouldn't be any differences at the armhole and hemline. If you don't clip and notch the curve properly that could lead to the problem. Maybe the easiest way of showing it is by video. This one seems pretty good: Princess seam. HTH

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Judie

MandMMom
MandMMom
Advanced Beginner
New Jersey USA
Member since 3/2/13
Posts: 19
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Date: 3/30/13 9:05 PM

Thanks for all your suggestions!

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
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In reply to MandMMom <<


Date: 3/30/13 9:23 PM

there are two tricks to sewing a princess seam. Stay stitch the center piece in the area of the curve and clip so that it straightens out. Sew with the side piece on the bottom so that the feed dogs ease the extra length. Use lots of pins at the curve perpendicular to the seam to keep it in place.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Muldini
Muldini
Intermediate
Member since 9/29/10
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Date: 3/31/13 5:19 PM

It may sound silly, but one thing that's caught me out a couple of times is trying to match the cutting lines/the cut edges instead of the stitching lines. Could it be that?

Please someone correct me if I'm wrong in thinking that would make a significant difference over a number of seams...

marymary86
marymary86
Intermediate
Georgia USA
Member since 7/20/08
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In reply to schmammy <<


Date: 3/31/13 5:53 PM

it's only for insiders now.

I knew I had to ease the fuller rounder part of the seam into the other side.

I haven't sewn one is a while but if I'm remembering correctly once I lined up notches, I knew how much had to be eased in. I never chose synthetic fabric for princess seams since they were such a pain to ease.

------
Mary


schmammy
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schmammy  Friend of PR
Texas USA
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In reply to marymary86 <<
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Date: 4/1/13 9:16 AM

That's too bad because it really is helpful. I think it was by Kenneth King. The key is to use A LOT of pins in the curve...like maybe every 1/8" to 1/4"! Tedious to pin and to sew but the result is well worth it. Oh, and pressing correctly, too.

------
Indecision may or may not be my problem. -Jimmy Buffet

http://chihuahuaonmylap.blogspot.com/

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