Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Creative Sewing > Professional seam finish for princess seams ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Professional seam finish for princess seams
S1666
meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/1/13 9:20 AM

I have a very well fitting muslin of S1666 and since I'm currently in need of pretty spring dresses, I think I'll dive straight in with a Liberty version and probably line it with crepe de chine.

Strangely, I haven't worked with many process seams before. Also, the lines on this dress go from shoulder all the way to the hem, which I think makes finishing a little trickier than a dress with a waistline. Normally, I would finish the skirt and skirt lining with French seams, but I would not finish the seams in a lined bodice. Here, I'm concerned French seams wouldnt lay well enough over the bust and create too much bulk.

I don't have a serger and I hate leaving things unfinished. However, Liberty is very stable and I found this good article suggesting small seam allowances and a pinked finish. Excellent point, but I still feel like pinking is a little unfinished.

There's also a vintage technique for a hairline seam that Gertie demonstrates in a YouTube video for curved seams, but I haven't tried that yet.

I find myself asking, "what would Susan Kahlje do?"

Btw, this dress is supremely flattering! Can we say tiny waist? And really easy to fit. I imagine it will look good in just about any fabric you could think of with a little drape. I feel sure I'm going to make several.

------
Melanie

nicegirl
starstarstarstar
nicegirl
Intermediate
DC USA
Member since 5/10/06
Posts: 1717
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 4/1/13 9:25 AM

Before I had a serger I zigzagged my seam allowances. It is not beautiful, but it is stable. As you are sewing in a lightweight fabric with princess seams, bulk is definitely a concern. Even a Hong Kong finish might be too much, but if you really want a couture look you should try some samples to see how you feel about it.

------
http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 4/1/13 10:01 AM

Gertie's hairline seam finish

------
Melanie

woole bully

woole bully
Intermediate
IN USA
Member since 8/9/06
Posts: 69
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/2/13 8:31 AM

i watched gertie's demo on youtube. liked the idea but found it hard to see while she was demonstrating. she used a floral fabric without any contrasting thread. am gonna google more views. such a nice seam finish!

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/2/13 8:44 AM

It might help if you google baby hems too, it's pretty much the same technique but with two layers. I'm going to try it on a sample to see if it will work on a steeper bust curve.

------
Melanie

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA
Member since 12/30/11
Posts: 2757
online now


Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/2/13 12:59 PM

Do you have a 3-step zig-zag, also called a serpentine stitch? I just got one on my new machine; it seems to crumple the fabric edge less than a conventional zig-zag does for me- especially on lightweight cloth.

And thanks for the Gertie link with her method.

Hey, get a serger! I use mine early and often. Lots of refined things can be done on it and the range goes to heavy duty. With it you can serge the 1st pass of a french seam with a delicately narrow 3-thread seam. Just sayin'. Good luck with your lovely dress.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/2/13 1:31 PM

I'm thinking about it, thanks!

------
Melanie

couturemom
star
couturemom
Advanced
NC USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 112
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/3/13 7:01 AM

After watching the Couture dress class, I'd say Susan would underline the dress and then tack the seam allowances to the underlining, with no finishing. Clearly we don't have time to sew like that for every project.

I love Gertie's video, and think a hairline seam would be perfect if your fabric is somewhat sheer. Personally, if I'm lining a dress, I usually do not finish or serge the fashion fabric seams because you run the risk of having a ridge line. If the fabric ravels, I use pinking shears. However, I only wear most things I make a few times a year, so they're not getting roughed up in the wash a lot.

meleliza
star
meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
Posts: 654
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/7/13 8:26 PM

An excellent point, of course. I realized after I posted tht I don't really want to finish this one the couture way. I hope to get good wear out of it and plan to put it in the wash. I have tried the hairline seam out in some scraps of Liberty that I cut in the shape of the bust curve and it is really impressively invisible. It's a little time consuming, so I may do French seams at the sides where they won't show so much, over the bust I think it will work well.

------
Melanie

TamNearPDX
TamNearPDX
Advanced Beginner
WA USA
Member since 1/16/08
Posts: 211
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/7/13 11:31 PM

I can't wait to see your review and pics of your finished project!:-)

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Creative Sewing >> Professional seam finish for princess seams

Merchants on PR
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Break your Serger Out of the Box
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Break your Serger Out of the Box

Online Sewing Classes
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics
Fee: $19.99
(Regular $49.00)
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics

McCall's 6044 MEN'S SHIRTS
photo
Review by Ravensara on 10/14/12
Read Review

Angela Osborn Esther Blouse Digital Pattern (SS10-11-102)
Angela Osborn Esther Blouse Digital Pattern (SS10-11-102)

Details
Price: $9.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Pinwheel tunic + slip dress Digital Pattern ( Size 5-12 )
Oliver + S Pinwheel tunic + slip dress Digital Pattern ( Size 5-12 )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Vogue Patterns 8553
photo
Review by pt6356 on 4/20/09
Read Review

Favorite Things Little Prairie Girl Pattern
Favorite Things Little Prairie Girl Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Beginner Sewing Lab 102 - A downloadable Book by Shannon Gifford
Beginner Sewing Lab 102  - A downloadable Book by Shannon Gifford

Details
Price: $14.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Butterick 4005 Pattern ( Size 6-7-8 )
Butterick 4005 Pattern ( Size 6-7-8 )

Details
Price: $2.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 1448 Pattern ( Size XS-S-M-L )
Simplicity 1448 Pattern ( Size XS-S-M-L )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN