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Forum > Creative Sewing > Professional seam finish for princess seams ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

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Professional seam finish for princess seams
S1666
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/1/13 9:20 AM

I have a very well fitting muslin of S1666 and since I'm currently in need of pretty spring dresses, I think I'll dive straight in with a Liberty version and probably line it with crepe de chine.

Strangely, I haven't worked with many process seams before. Also, the lines on this dress go from shoulder all the way to the hem, which I think makes finishing a little trickier than a dress with a waistline. Normally, I would finish the skirt and skirt lining with French seams, but I would not finish the seams in a lined bodice. Here, I'm concerned French seams wouldnt lay well enough over the bust and create too much bulk.

I don't have a serger and I hate leaving things unfinished. However, Liberty is very stable and I found this good article suggesting small seam allowances and a pinked finish. Excellent point, but I still feel like pinking is a little unfinished.

There's also a vintage technique for a hairline seam that Gertie demonstrates in a YouTube video for curved seams, but I haven't tried that yet.

I find myself asking, "what would Susan Kahlje do?"

Btw, this dress is supremely flattering! Can we say tiny waist? And really easy to fit. I imagine it will look good in just about any fabric you could think of with a little drape. I feel sure I'm going to make several.

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Melanie

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Date: 4/1/13 9:25 AM

Before I had a serger I zigzagged my seam allowances. It is not beautiful, but it is stable. As you are sewing in a lightweight fabric with princess seams, bulk is definitely a concern. Even a Hong Kong finish might be too much, but if you really want a couture look you should try some samples to see how you feel about it.

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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
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2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
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2009? I give up

meleliza
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Date: 4/1/13 10:01 AM

Gertie's hairline seam finish

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Melanie

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woole bully  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/13 8:31 AM

i watched gertie's demo on youtube. liked the idea but found it hard to see while she was demonstrating. she used a floral fabric without any contrasting thread. am gonna google more views. such a nice seam finish!

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be yourself; everyone else is already taken: oscar wilde

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/2/13 8:44 AM

It might help if you google baby hems too, it's pretty much the same technique but with two layers. I'm going to try it on a sample to see if it will work on a steeper bust curve.

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Melanie

wendyrb
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Date: 4/2/13 12:59 PM

Do you have a 3-step zig-zag, also called a serpentine stitch? I just got one on my new machine; it seems to crumple the fabric edge less than a conventional zig-zag does for me- especially on lightweight cloth.

And thanks for the Gertie link with her method.

Hey, get a serger! I use mine early and often. Lots of refined things can be done on it and the range goes to heavy duty. With it you can serge the 1st pass of a french seam with a delicately narrow 3-thread seam. Just sayin'. Good luck with your lovely dress.

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

meleliza
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Date: 4/2/13 1:31 PM

I'm thinking about it, thanks!

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Melanie

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Date: 4/3/13 7:01 AM

After watching the Couture dress class, I'd say Susan would underline the dress and then tack the seam allowances to the underlining, with no finishing. Clearly we don't have time to sew like that for every project.

I love Gertie's video, and think a hairline seam would be perfect if your fabric is somewhat sheer. Personally, if I'm lining a dress, I usually do not finish or serge the fashion fabric seams because you run the risk of having a ridge line. If the fabric ravels, I use pinking shears. However, I only wear most things I make a few times a year, so they're not getting roughed up in the wash a lot.

meleliza
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Date: 4/7/13 8:26 PM

An excellent point, of course. I realized after I posted tht I don't really want to finish this one the couture way. I hope to get good wear out of it and plan to put it in the wash. I have tried the hairline seam out in some scraps of Liberty that I cut in the shape of the bust curve and it is really impressively invisible. It's a little time consuming, so I may do French seams at the sides where they won't show so much, over the bust I think it will work well.

------
Melanie

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Date: 4/7/13 11:31 PM

I can't wait to see your review and pics of your finished project!:-)

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