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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Sleeve Pattern Alteration ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Sleeve Pattern Alteration
It's forcing the front of the bodice to come too low
Cheyene
Cheyene
Member since 5/5/12
Posts: 8
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Date: 4/2/13 11:15 PM

I'm making a dress from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. It's the 1910's dress.
Everything has been fine and dandy so far, but about 2 months ago, I quit working on it because the sleeve isn't working!
Here's the link to the photo I have uploaded of the sleeve pattern piece:
Sleeve Pattern Piece
And a the drawing of the dress that the pattern was taken from:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/AlohaAroha/Luna/IMG_3597.jpg

I've got every other piece fitting me fine. But the sleeves-!
The shoulders are causing me problems. They are too long for me. And I'm not sure how to fix that. :0 If they were just simply straps, I'd make them shorter. But I don't know how to translate that into a full sleeve.
If I take in about 3 inches in a dart starting at the top edge of the shoulder, that works and the fit is good. But it looks ugly, and I want to be able to cut the piece so that I don't need a dart or have to take in any excess fabric. I really don't know how to do that, though, since when I do try to figure it out using more mock-up fabric, it ends up being very distorted.
Would it work if I just took in the space needed right at the seams?
I hope I'm making myself clear enough. Never have been very good at explaining what I wanted/meant. :confused:

If anyone has any ideas, or see some simple way that I missed and can point them out to me, I'd much appreciate it! Thank you! :)

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 9/18/02
Posts: 1905
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Date: 4/3/13 0:51 AM

Could you post a photo of you wearing the dress? It's hard to figure out what's going on without one.

From your description, it sounds as if you need to fold out some of the width of the sleeve pattern, but we can't know until we can see it on you.

------
Debbie

petro
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petro  Friend of PR
Advanced
FRANCE
Member since 6/24/07
Posts: 2350
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Date: 4/3/13 3:36 AM

I'm not sure what is not working for you either, but I looked at the pattern piece and drawing and it appears that its really a top bodice piece, with no shoulder seam, extended to a sleeve, in the same way a cap sleeve works. There could be a problem in the shoulder area for one of these reasons:-
the length at the neckline edge is longer than you need causing bagging
your shoulders slope where the shoulder line of the pattern piece is effectively straight
the top arm measurement is wrong for you
Do any of these sound like it?
on edit it sounds like the first two ... I'd dart out the piece along the shoulder line, either convert it into a shoulder seam, or create a shaped piece, smoothing the curve on the sleeve bottom edge which will result from darting the pattern along the shoulder line. Have you tried this? If so, how did it go?
-- Edited on 4/3/13 3:40 AM --

Cheyene
Cheyene
Member since 5/5/12
Posts: 8
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Date: 4/14/13 9:55 PM

Thanks, both of you. :)
The taking out width by darting it and then using that to create a shaped piece seems to be the solution.
I apologize for not replying sooner but I've had some rather unpleasant things happening lately that caused me to completely drop sewing and then as a result forget about this post! :0

Thanks again! (Debbie, I can't do photos right now, sadly. My camera is out right now)

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