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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Vogue 8280: sizing help (sewing with a stretchy fabric)

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Vogue 8280: sizing help (sewing with a stretchy fabric)
I need to figure out sizing
Member since 9/3/12
Posts: 9
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Date: 4/4/13 1:37 PM

Hi there,

I recently got my hands on Vogue 8280 (the famous Galaxy dress knock-off) and figured it would make a stupendous bombshell dress.

I bought some gorgeous stretch taffeta in shocking pink for the dress as well as some black stretch satin for the contrast flange and belt.

Having read a bunch of reviews for this pattern, I'm wondering if I should change my size choice a bit, since some people have indicated that the pattern runs large.

The Vogue measurements for size 10 are
Bust: 32 1/2
Waist: 25
Hips: 34 1/2

While the size 10 measurements are:
Bust: 34
Waist: 26 1/2
Hips: 36

My measurements are smack in the middle:
Bust: 33
Waist: 26
Hips: 35

Considering that the pink fabric has some stretch to it, should I venture into the land of size 10, even though my measurements are slightly bigger than what the pattern enveloppe calls for?

Thank you!
-- Edited on 4/4/13 1:39 PM --
Member since 4/27/08
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Date: 4/4/13 2:31 PM

Does the pattern call for stretch fabric? What about the finished garment measurements? The garment will need some ease to it, so you don't want it too tight, and if it has been drafted for stretch fabric already, you don't want to overkill the Lycra.

2015 In: 36 yards
2015 Sewn: 25.5 yards
2014 In: 99.75 yards
2014 Sewn: 80.5 yards

I'll try anything once :)

Please excuse my typos...sometimes it is harder to go back and edit on mobile than it is worth!

Member since 9/3/12
Posts: 9
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Date: 4/4/13 5:41 PM

This pattern was drafted for non-strech fabric, though I have seen a few pattern reviewers on this site that made their dress out of stretch material (2 way, not 4 way), so I know it's possible.
California USA
Member since 5/2/09
Posts: 5418
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In reply to newbiecanadian
thumbsup 1 member likes this.

Date: 4/5/13 5:26 PM

Have not sewn that one up, but do have the pattern. Was going to, but instead did just buy the dress, sewn up by someone else, (not produced in a factory anyplace) that I found at the thrift store, pre-made up by someone else, prior.

I'm pretty sure they did use that same Vouge pattern, but of course in donating it to the thrift store, they did not note what size they used of the pattern. They used a stretch woven too. It was in blue and black threaded wool woven plaid with some lycra in it. If you want it to look the most like Mr. Mouret's original version of his Galaxy dress and all those models wearing it, and if you have the body for that, I think it does have to be looking pretty tight on the torso and though the hips, and if not sprayed on-ish, at least with not much loose and extra there at all. Some stretch in the fabric would let that happen and you be able to still move, and I think a good thing there.

On the one I bought at the thrift store that was just beautifully made and a lot of work for someone else prior to me even getting it, I'm thinking maybe it even ended up there, as being a bit too tight and restrictive for them maybe. It fit me, as in I could get it on, but was a bit too tight and restrictive too, but I got around that, and got a bit more "wiggle and bending room into it" by letting out the darts in the front and back of it.

When in doubt about cutting anything, I think always cut with the thought that you can always take a lager seam or deeper darts,to make something a bit smaller, but you can't easy add back in more missing fabric later, in a way that is not noticeable, so to be safe, maybe cut the larger size, and just make it a bit smaller and tighter afterwards by sewing means if you decide to do that. Also depends on how long it is too in length. The previously sewn up one, I picked up, had the skirt portion past covering the knee, I think the shorter it is, the tighter you could probably get away with and still be able to walk in and even climb up and into a car with or such.
Member since 9/3/12
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Date: 4/6/13 5:25 PM

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I ended up buying some stretch satin (with the same 20% stretch ration as the taffeta) that happened to be on sale for the lining of this dress. I also bought some extra to make a muslin out of (yay for 50% off sales!). Hope it turns out ok!
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