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Forum > Patterns and Notions > vogue 8766 dress - all pieces cut on the cross grain ( Moderated by Sharon1952)

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vogue 8766 dress - all pieces cut on the cross grain
Why? Could it be due to the underlining?
tigergirl
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tigergirl  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/5/13 7:51 AM

I know that normally the crosswise grain goes around the body, the lengthwise up and down the body but this pattern has the grainlines the opposite way. At first I thought they must be marking the crosswise grain on the pattern but when I checked the pattern layout instructions, it seems that they're instructing you to cut the pieces with the lengthwise grain going across the body - could this be due to the underlining??

Vogue8766

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Miss Fairchild
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Date: 4/5/13 8:10 AM

this is interesting, as I'm taking a Craftsy class using this same pattern. The teacher says to cut everything on the straight grain, for our muslins, even though she states the dress is cut on the cross grain.

My thinking the reason why it's cut on the cross grain is for ease. The dress is a little fitted but has ease.

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lakaribane
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In reply to tigergirl <<
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Date: 4/5/13 1:06 PM

Based on my experience with Burda and border prints/scalloped edge eyelet or lace, it is sometimes a way to work around the fabric constraints.

Burda has often changed the grain direction to work with narrow fabric, change the orientation of a print or stripe, place the scalloped edge at the hem etc.

Once they even directed to use a length-wise stretch woven with the pattern cut on the cross-wise so the stretch would be "normal" i.e. around the body.

On V8677, 4 out of 6 views use lace or eyelet so I imagine this must be part of the reasoning.

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KathleenS
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Date: 4/5/13 5:37 PM

I agree with lakaribane. I think it's because of the lace, in case you're working with a lace that has a scalloped edge along the selvage. It's a pity they don't tell you that for the people who have a different fabric. I would cut it lengthwise if it suits your fabric.

tigergirl
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Date: 4/6/13 0:10 AM

Of course, didn't even think of the lace as I'm not intending to use lace - I'm sure that must be it.

I intend to cut it the way I want but was just curious as to why the pattern wanted the opposite.

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utahliz
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Date: 4/6/13 1:08 PM

You'd think they'd show the lace edge in the pattern illustrations then....

InglesideBelle
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In reply to KathleenS <<
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Date: 4/10/13 7:41 PM

I've made this dress in lace. I cut the dress and the lining on the cross-grain as directed and it worked well. The lace I used had a what you might call rows that were parallel to the selvedge scallops. Cutting on the cross-grain made it possible to line up the bodice pieces so that those 'rows' matched across. The only pieces I cut with the scallops on the edge were the sleeves. I thought about cutting the bodice pieces with the scallops along the lower edge, but my daughter wanted a ribbon sash which would have covered up the scalloped edge, so I cut off the scallops. If you were making the straight skirt version, you could cut those pieces so that the scalloped lace edge formed the hem.

However, since I made the full circle skirt version, I had to cut a half circle for each skirt piece, which meant that I was cutting into the middle of the fabric, not along the scalloped edge. However, I cut carefully so that all the scalloped edges were usable (except for the part I used for the sleeves). Then I sewed the scalloped lace edge to the lower edge of the skirt. It turned out beautifully - my daughter was thrilled with the dress.

I haven't posted a review because I don't have any really good pictures of her wearing it (and also because I have no clue how one goes about posting reviews and photos).
-- Edited on 9/6/13 12:27 PM --

rosemarieathas
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Date: 5/7/13 12:11 PM

Thanks you, Inglesidebelle. This is really helpful to me as I will make this dress in the future. Very encouraged that your daughter liked it.

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