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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Underlining ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Underlining
Sewncooknmom
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Sewncooknmom
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Date: 4/6/13 6:16 PM

I want to learn how to make an underlining. I was wondering when I make an underling for a bodice, do I make the darts with the actual fabric and the underlining fabric when they are sewn together? Or is this to be done separately before I put the fabric and underlining together?

Also, what kind of fabric do I use for the underlining? Can muslin fabric be used?

Hope this makes sense! Thank you.
-- Edited on 4/6/13 6:22 PM --
Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Sewncooknmom

Date: 4/6/13 7:37 PM

Are you talking about lining or underlining? Underlining is sometimes used to strengthen a fabric, and is sewn with the sides seams of the original garment. Lining is used to hide thin fabrics, or for warmth and is sewn separate from the original garment.

I used a cotton batiste, (lighter than muslin), for lining a silk dress with a diagonal dart. I stitched the darts on the lining separate from the darts on the dress.

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marec
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In reply to Sewncooknmom

Date: 4/6/13 7:42 PM

Don't use muslin fabric-use a finer fabric such as batiste. I have underlined two items-a jacket and a shirt. The jacket is underlined in the front and the back but not the sleeves. I treated it like a sew in interfacing. I also added darts in. The lining was separate.

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Sewncooknmom
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In reply to Miss Fairchild

Date: 4/7/13 1:14 AM

I am referring to underlining.

Thank you for your explanation of underlining. I appreciate it!
-- Edited on 4/7/13 1:17 AM --
arianamaniacs
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Date: 4/7/13 5:35 AM

With underlining, you baste the fabrics together inside the seam allowance. Also follow inside the dart seam allowance. Then you treat it as one piece. the basting inside the dart seam allowance makes sure that the two fabrics are tight together and the dart will be smooth.

The weight of the underlining should be similar to the outer fabric unless you specifically want to change the properties like drape or stiffness.
-- Edited on 4/7/13 6:17 AM --

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