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crotch curve tutorial using flexible ruler
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
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Date: 4/8/13 10:53 AM

Hello all,

I've been reading some past threads on crotch curve issues and I recall a poster who wanted to know how to apply the curve created by a flexible ruler to a muslin or pattern. I came across this tutorial online, by Jean Haas, with clear photos and thought I'd share it for people to comment on.

Pants Fitting Secrets Revealed

Mole Princess
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Date: 4/8/13 10:54 AM

Sorry--that's Jean Hass, not Haas.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 4/8/13 4:23 PM

This was great! But she lost me when the instructions got to the hem. I don't understand what she meant by drawing the stitching lines and folding the crotch...

wendyrb
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Date: 4/8/13 4:59 PM

I just read through and found a few spots confusing too. With 2 columns of instructions and labels under the pictures, that's a lot squeezed into a tight instruction sheet.

* When the instructions say fold up the leg there is a picture of the Pant Hem folded up. (I didn't see fold up crotch, but was reading quickly). I think they have you do this in case after the crotch is reshaped you need to widen or narrow the pant leg or change the flare. Then, the hem needs reshaping at the seams too. Otherwise when hemming, there could be excess or too little fabric.

I think I have to go back and read this more closely!

I took a class with Lorraine Henry on getting your own accurate crotch curve. She uses the flexiruler over a pair of pants to get it close to your body. You get the exact curve. The rump is the widest on most people and towards the waist it is smaller, so not obvious how remove the flexiruler and save the curve you've just established. Lorraine leaves the center area of the ruler near the crotch point/inseam intersection and rotates it 90 degrees toward the wall. You can also picture that it is parallel to the floor. The curve should be undisturbed and you can step out of it. I watched her do it and it did work! HTH.

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Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

JTink
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Date: 4/8/13 6:17 PM

Opps, my mistake. She wasn't "folding the crotch", she was creasing to the crotch...it does seem like there is stuff missing. I guess if we want to pay $50 and watch the video, it would all make sense. I've been burned so many times with pants fitting classes, it's hard to put that much money into something "unknown"

avatrx

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Date: 4/8/13 6:49 PM

Quote:
it's hard to put that much money into something "unknown"


I had oodles of pants fitting issues. I even took a class which would have been good had there not been too many people requiring a little more attention.

My solution to pants? Try the Surefit system for pants. perhaps you could find a preowned copy here or on the sewitsforsale site. That's where I found mine. It's a basic system. Easy to follow, and for the first time, on the first try - I got a pair of pants to fit me like they should.

I did lower the waist a little because I prefer that, but up until then I had a HORRIBLE time making pants that actually fit.

I don't own stock in the company, nor do I commercially promote them. I just had good luck with them, so I pass that on.

I have yet to make a pair of jeans although the gal that owns the system is quick to respond to any and all questions. More so than other pattern drafters (who shall remain nameless). Glenda Sparling is great! She has tons of videos on her site that show you how to use her system. I've only used the pants system and mine was an older system which I told her I bought used. No problem, she directed me to where I could find any and all info I needed.

My plan is to make another pair of pull-ons tonight or tomorrow. I've been losing weight and inches and need to revise my pants pattern. This time I'll be adding pockets. I've done a fly front before, but never added pockets.

hope this suggestion helps. I think there is a board here that talks about the surefit system.

good luck. been where you are...................
woggy
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Date: 4/9/13 7:13 AM

Jean offered this class a number of years ago via online. Bought it and was extremely disappointed. This tutorial does not work.

Jean stopped answering my questions on line when I could not get her instructions to even come close to solving my crotch curve issues and inseam problems I was having by following her instructions.

Notice the pants on the model in the picture? I find it curious that a pleated full leg pants pattern is used. Those pants are not in style so why not have a pants with a skinny leg? Perhaps it is because skinny legs are difficult to fit most bodies without issues.

Woggy



JTink
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Date: 4/9/13 8:27 AM

Avatrx, thank you for the heads up about SureFit.

Woggy, it's so good to read the pros and cons of the tutorials and makes me feel better to know I'm not the only one who has been disappointed. I got quite a few good pointers from Sandra B's Craftsy class(example: how to regain the grain line after adjustments have been made). I've been making my own pants for 38 years. But now with the shifting body(booty), I've had to relearn a few things. Also, most of my best fitting pants were pleated trousers...they were loose and flowing, it was a no brainer. Now I'm going for a more fitted look, more of a "slacks" than trouser. I have gotten jeans down pretty good, but still working on the slacks. Although, the fit can change from one pair of jeans to the other...I know the fabric has a lot to do with that.

Nancy K
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Date: 4/9/13 1:28 PM

This presupposes that you actually have a pair of pants that fit well in the crotch.

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JTink
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Date: 4/9/13 2:20 PM

I agree Nancy. I really get a kick out of the folks who suggest measuring something that fits you well. What if there is nothing in the closet that truly fits well? I've tried this with certain things that are iffy, but I still have a boat load of adjustments to make. I've made so many clothes and can honestly say, that very few fit me comfortably...they look great, but the comfort factor is not always there.

It's really hit and miss. I seem to do better with jeans, but would like to have some dress slacks that don't have the dreaded 2 inch wedgie thing going on. I'm still working on it
-- Edited on 4/9/13 2:26 PM --
-- Edited on 4/9/13 2:27 PM --

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