Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Creative Sewing > Satin stitch applique problems ( Moderated by Lynnelle)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Satin stitch applique problems
ahrizel
star
ahrizel
Beginner
PA
Member since 4/22/12
Posts: 300
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/8/13 11:18 AM

I'm having some issues with appliques I've been doing. I've done at least 20 t shirts with appliques, usually just a simple shape. I put on the fabric with wonder under, and use a fuse and tear stabilizer on the back of the shirt. The stabilizer I've only started using in the past year, and it does help. But I'm having some problems. The first is doing the satin stitch, it's very hard to move the fabric. Feels like the stabilizer makes it hard for the machine to move the fabric. It's certainly hard for me to move the fabric. The second issue how go around curves neatly. I end up stopping the machine with needle down to move the fabric slightly. Both of these problems make the satin stitch wiggle around and look uneven around the fabric. I'd like these to look better, since I'm often doing them for charity. Any suggestions to get better results? All ideas are welcome, sometimes it's the simple things that mess me up
Mary

clt3
clt3
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 2/6/06
Posts: 938
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/8/13 2:26 PM

It sounds as if you are doing these free hand and not machine embroidery? I would suggest switching your stabilizer to a cutaway because tee shirts stretch. Try a fusible poly mesh.

------
Singer 66-16. Singer 600e, Kenmore 158.1913 , Viking 1100, Brother 4000D, Brother Quattro, Bernina 930, White 634DE,
Babylock Evolve, 2 Featherweights ,Pfaff Creative Performance,Janome Coverpro 1000CPX






missticky2
missticky2
Intermediate
Member since 12/14/09
Posts: 143
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 3 members like this.
Date: 4/8/13 3:05 PM

Hi...are you using an applique foot for your machine? It has a cutout underneath to allow the thickness of the satin stitch to pass through without getting caught up.
You might also try loosening the pressure on the presser foot, if your machine has that option.
When going around a bend, I stop often, but making sure the needle is down on the outside of the curve. That helps stop any little gaps that might show when you move the fabric.

------
Blessings
Janice

ahrizel
star
ahrizel
Beginner
PA
Member since 4/22/12
Posts: 300
Login to reply to this post

In reply to clt3 <<


Date: 4/8/13 4:59 PM

Yes, it is free hand not an embroidery machine. I will try switching stabilizer and doing some samples to see the difference. I usually use old t shirts of mine to sample the appliques, so it will be easy to pick up a yard of the fusible poly mesh.
Mary

ahrizel
star
ahrizel
Beginner
PA
Member since 4/22/12
Posts: 300
Login to reply to this post

In reply to missticky2 <<


Date: 4/8/13 5:03 PM

I don't usually use the satin stitch foot, though I do have one. I wasn't having the best of luck with it, but it's worth trying again. I can adjust my foot pressure and I didn't know that could help. As for where to keep the foot when I'm adjusting, that's been a bugaboo for me. Does it matter if the curve going in or going out? I frequently applique a mickey mouse head and the curves can be a nightmare.
Mary

Lynnelle
starstarstar
Lynnelle  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 4/8/07
Posts: 2461
Board Moderator
Login to reply to this post

Date: 4/8/13 5:58 PM

Aren't you supposed to drop the feed dogs when doing applique?

ahrizel
star
ahrizel
Beginner
PA
Member since 4/22/12
Posts: 300
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Lynnelle <<


Date: 4/8/13 6:20 PM

Drop the feed dogs?? Not as far as I've been aware. I've dropped them for free motion work, but that's it. When you're doing a satin stitch on a straight line the feed dogs definitely work for you. Or gentle curves when you to do very little adjustment. It's only the tight work that makes my life difficult. When I've done squares or big circles the machine feeds it fairly nicely. But when I get into small circles or going around more intricate shapes that's when the problems come out. I'm going to be on orca appliques tonight, my first run at layered appliques. The little shapes I need to stitch in black and white are going to be difficult for me. The whales are going to be stitches on a blue background then the whole thing is going on the t shirts. At least if I mess up the whales, I can do another one, it won't screw up the shirts. The blue background is big oval, so hopefully it won't be a problem.
Mary

beauturbo
beauturbo
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 5/2/09
Posts: 2824
Login to reply to this post

In reply to ahrizel <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 4/8/13 7:28 PM

If it's too hard to move the fabric, then maybe your stitch length on the satin stitch is just too small and tight. Since you are sewing zig zag satin stitch and feed dogs up, you should not be or having to be yourself, having to move the fabric your self at all, your feed dogs are the only thing that should be moving the fabric instead. So don't even try to pull the fabric through at all, just let the feed dogs all by themselves carry it forwards instead, hands are to just more lightly touch or guide it instead, but not to ever try to pull it though.

To get around sharper curves or angles, or any of them actually if you want it to look the very best, and just a real smooth transition there, you do have to stop needle down, lift pressure foot and pivot the fabric. And a whole bunch of times in a row sometimes, and really in very tiny increments. Some place real tight where stitching changes angle, even maybe every stitchin a row for a while, something like a huge circle, or more gentle curve, not as often.

Doing a bunch of tight, smooth satin stitching is not particular real fast and quick to do at all, especially if lots of tight angles and curves to go around. So just more a precision over speed kind of thing.

So you are going to stop needle down, and pivot the fabric, with the needle on the outer, outside edge, of the zig zag swing for inner curves and angles, and stop needle down and pivot the fabric with the needle down on the inner, inside edge of the zig zag swing, for for outgoing curves and angles. Just draw some squares and circles on some fabric and play, and you will see. So if you really want it to look as smooth as possible, then trick is to never ever even try to pivot your fabric, if your needle is not all the way down in it, and pressure foot up, at the same time, then nothing can wiggle away from you, and nothing can go crooked either. Maybe try that.

Stretchy knit T shirts might not really even be the best thing to even try to do very tight smooth satin stitch covered applique edges on though, as way more chances of it making the T-shirt buckle I think. and it would take a very long time. Also might make that applique kind of stiff and hard on there even too. If the fabric appliques are T shirt kind of knits too, I think you could get away with a lot looser and more open of a zig zag stitch just for that, as you got them sealed and ironed down with the wonder under, and being a knit, the edges are not going to really fray anyways. Or maybe try some other fancy stitches from in the machine even, or use maybe a blanket stitch or something else instead.


-- Edited on 4/8/13 7:42 PM --

ahrizel
star
ahrizel
Beginner
PA
Member since 4/22/12
Posts: 300
Login to reply to this post

In reply to beauturbo <<


Date: 4/8/13 11:05 PM

Thanks for the detailed help I do most of the appliques on cotton t shirts that have no cotton or spandex in them, they are fairly heavy fabric. I did do some recently on thinner, stretchier fabric and had more problems. I had a feeling I would need to stop and pivot more then I'm doing. I usually do the satin stitch with a 3.5 to 4 width and a .3 length which is as short of a length as my machine does. The needle placement does mess me up, the directions help. As for the stitch itself, I really like the look of the satin stitch. I certainly have enough fancy stitches I could use instead, and I have used just a zigzag or blanket stitch in other applique projects. As for the buckling, I had that this week when I accidently did a shirt without the stabilizer. The sewing was okay, but it didn't look good, all wavy and messed up. The biggest thing for me is that on these shirts I do for charity, the tight satin stitch applique seems to look the best. And it's what most folks use for applique though it is certainly not required and not the only thing used. To be fair, most of appliques are being done on an embroidery machine. And I know I can't achieve the exact same easily. I just want my work to look as neat as possible.
Mary

stirwatersblue
star
stirwatersblue
Intermediate
KS USA
Member since 12/13/08
Posts: 3071
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/9/13 12:11 PM

Added to what everyone else says... sometimes it can help to do one narrower, not-so-tightly-packed pass around the applique first, and then go round everything again with a wider stitch--instead of trying to get it perfect in one go. This is particularly helpful filling in tight curves. I don't do a ton of applique these days, but I do a lot of satin stitch eyelets (teeny tiny circles!), and my results are 100% better when I do a first pass at ~3.0 wide, and the second at ~4.0.

I do have to drop the feed dogs for the eyelet function on my machine, but it never occurred to me that that might be b/c of the satin stitching. Huh!

ETA one more thing. Have you experimented with different thread? It can make a HUGE difference in how things come out. I've had some of my worst results with the higher end embroidery threads, and some of my best with plain old C&CDD. And vice versa! Satin stitch uses a ton of thread, so it's definitely worth it to find the least expensive thing you can that still gives good results!


-- Edited on 4/9/13 12:20 PM --
-- Edited on 4/9/13 12:20 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Creative Sewing >> Satin stitch applique problems

Merchants on PR
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Leather 101
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Leather 101

Online Sewing Classes
Bust Adjustments
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Bust Adjustments

New Look 6216
photo
Review by JennyQNY on 10/13/13
Read Review

SewBaby "I Can Do It" Cloth Activity Book Pattern
SewBaby

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

You Sew Girl 200mm Chunky Frame Purse Pattern
You Sew Girl 200mm Chunky Frame Purse Pattern

Details
Price: $27.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Liesl + Co. Weekend getaway blouse + dress Digital Pattern
Liesl + Co. Weekend getaway blouse + dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $12.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank & Dress Digital Pattern
Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank & Dress Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $12.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

New Look 6644
photo
Review by kim*brown on 5/15/07
Read Review

Burda 7753 Pattern
Burda 7753 Pattern

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Oliver + S Class Picnic Blouse & Shorts Pattern ( Size 5-12 )
Oliver + S Class Picnic Blouse & Shorts Pattern ( Size 5-12 )

Details
Price: $15.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN