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Forum > Sewing Machines > PCP question -- trouble going over seams ( Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)

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PCP question -- trouble going over seams
Kristikay22
Kristikay22
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Date: 4/9/13 9:43 AM

Anybody have trouble getting your PCP to go over thicker stuff?? Here is an example.. I did the elephant decorative stitch last night - it gets stuck because the sewing is dense and just knots if I'm not tugging the fabric from behind? I've noticed I have problems on my shirts (which I've made tons and never had aproblem with this on my Bernina...) --- knit shirt. I serge in a collar. All knit here -- I then fold the serged seam under and I topstitch with a stretch stitch to keep it down. So there is the collar on one side, the single layer of knit on the other and I'm sewing over the folded under seam in the middle. That makes 3 layers but of pretty thing knit -- nothing impressive like denim or anything. I reallllllly have to kinda tug at it from behind? It's as if the middle gets stuck on the feet? I've tried all sorts of feet. I really got this machine for knits and the idt - but it feels as if it's not walking enough/high enough? I've even raised the presser foot all the way up? I was at the store yesterday and the lady agreed I should have it looked at -- but I wanted to ask her help. She suggested not using IDT and such? That was a red flag for me (she's a teacher, not part of the store). I bought it for the IDT with knits? Why would I disengage it? Hmmmm... I think I'll start a separate post to ask...
My walking foot on my Bernina really worked better in this instance. I'm not giving upI think there may be something off with the pressure on my foot? Or I'd buy a special foot if that's the problem. I was just kinda reminded last night while doing the elephant stitch (just as a default - I changed nothing) --- and how it seemed to get stuck on itself that it's not me or my technique here. It was almost like the dense stitch on top was enough to stop the fabric from feeding through. My teacher suggested decreasing the stitch here and there. My thought was "um, this is a factory setting/stitch. It should work as is." I was using a thinner quilting cotton but had it doubled over 2x so 4 layers. It was thin and not thick -- but should be stable enough to hold the stitch well.
She then suggested removing the IDT while on that foot. I did - still kinda had the same problem. I could give a tug and kinda get past it and keep going... but still --- I need this puppy to preform!!

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Cat n Bull
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Cat n Bull  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/9/13 10:14 AM

I have a Creative 4, but I am pretty sure it has similar features as the PCP.

When you select a stitch, the machine will tell you which foot to use. For a dense stitch like the elephant, I believe it recommends the foot that does NOT use the idt, so it moves over the dense stitching better.

I can't remember which one it is, I am not a 'foot' person. I used the elephant on a blanket, 2 layers of the satin binding plus the fleece in the middle. My machine timing was off (the elephants were what made me realize the timing was off!) so that was why I had some wonky elephants with skipped stitches.

I did change the foot to the one the machine recommended, and it DID make it go smoother. Still had some skipped stitches, I abused my poor machine trying to learn how to FMQ on it! Once she had her timing set, she sewed perfect again!

edit:
I did not change the foot pressure.
-- Edited on 4/9/13 10:15 AM --

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Cathryn

clotheshorse
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In reply to Kristikay22 <<


Date: 4/9/13 10:46 AM

I haven't had any trouble with thicknesses with my PCP. For best results with decorative stitches use a stabilizer underneath. The machine will tell you which foot to use. Also make sure you are using an appropriate needle for your fabric. It sounds like you may need to have your machine checked out though.

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Viking D1, 1+, Pfaff 7570, Singer 503 Rocketeer, 66, 15-91, 301, Featherweight 6 Flock, Babylock Enlighten & CS and Pfaff Creative Performance

Kristikay22
Kristikay22
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Date: 4/9/13 2:33 PM

ok - they called me to tell me to use a spool cap. LOL - I'm lame-o and rarely put one on. Apparently It was allowing some extra thread to slip off? (I have never noticed that though....) and kinda pool up -- not a ton, so it wasn't making a big mess but just enough to get it caught up and almost "candlewick" underneath. So we'll see how thta works!

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lelliebunny
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In reply to Kristikay22 <<
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Date: 4/9/13 4:16 PM

i hope that works. i was told to always use a spool pin cap on a horizontal pin by my bernina dealer and my pfaff/brother/baby lock dealer so that the spool stays stable. Maybe the spool was moving around as it was unwinding and that caused the thread to behave like that?

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LuceLu
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Date: 4/9/13 6:18 PM

I've noticed that some threads need extra room to unwind. For example, I was having some problems with the Floriani-- it is coated with silicone. Since I put it on a spool holder, it works much better. I did not have an issue with the RA.

I have not tried the elephant stitch yet. So far, I have not had any problems with feeding 4 layers of fabric. Try this: Restart your machine. Check your default settings to see if they are left on embroidery or something. I know there is a setting for the newer embroidery foot. Check your bobbin area/make sure you have a nice smooth bobbing and that it "snapped" when you threaded it. Thread your machine -- you can use a spool cap or set your thread on a bigger spool holder. Then in the correct foot-- check the manual on these decorative type stitches, they may want you to disengage the idt for this stitch. Then try again. If you cannot get this to stitch correctly, I would go to the dealer and have them make an adjustment. I remember that Sib had some cockeyed stitching on her first Olivia when doing maxi stitches.

clotheshorse
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In reply to LuceLu <<


Date: 4/9/13 7:33 PM

The balance can be checked by stitching a sample of the darning stitch , if that is off then the dealer can adjust it. Sib's machine was off and mine was as well. It just makes the stitches incorrectly aligned.

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Viking D1, 1+, Pfaff 7570, Singer 503 Rocketeer, 66, 15-91, 301, Featherweight 6 Flock, Babylock Enlighten & CS and Pfaff Creative Performance

wendyrb
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In reply to Kristikay22 <<


Date: 4/9/13 9:26 PM

Here's a few things I learned or was reminded of about machine threading during my sewing Basics Class-

* Horizontal is the best position in general for the thread spool. That way the thread can unwind without the spool spinning on the spindle. I haven't studied that, but apparently when the thread is held vertically, or upright, the spool itself spins and pending it's size that can change your tension. The tension is set with a horizontally positioned thread spool.

* Position the thread so that it unwinds over the top, rather than coming up from the bottom of the spool. The top of the spool supports the thread slightly taut and gives a more consistent tension. The other way, when it drops down the thread can go slack and the machine has to try to compensate in tensioning.

* Always use a felt disk put on the thread spindle first. Then place the thread as above. Finally, add the plastic spool cap that is close in size to the thread spool. Put the knob end facing away from the thread and toward the left. However, there are narrow thread spools that have a hollow tube in the center. Then reverse the spool cap direction so that it nests inside the thread tube to steady it.

I'm not saying any of these things were at issue for you, just passing it along as recommended procedures that might be useful. Let us know how you progress.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Kristikay22
Kristikay22
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Date: 4/14/13 9:50 PM

thanks! All helpfulI was also told to use a larger spool cap -- it helps hold the thread off of the spool so that it doesn't get hung up and I see that this works well!!

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