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Forum > Fitting Woes > Lazy but practical-hire a dressmaker to make a sloper ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Lazy but practical-hire a dressmaker to make a sloper
Have difficulty fitting myself.
CarolynD
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CarolynD
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New Jersey USA
Member since 12/31/05
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Date: 4/10/13 1:49 AM

I thought if I just go to a local dressmaker and have them make a fitted muslin sloper with wearing ease, that I could just use that for most everything I sew in the future. I could pivot darts, add extra ease as needed, etc. I could just overlay it over other patterns to be better assured of a fit. I have had poor results even after trying to do full bust adjustments, etc. Constant problems are gaping back necklines, too big in the shoulders, arm hole gaps, too tight, improper bust point, etc.

I have narrow shoulders, and a 34" above the bust measurement.Then my full bust is 39", and my waist is 30 and my hips 40. So I am a few different sizes and it is just so much darn work to alter every pattern by making 2 or 3 muslins--why not just pay to have this done?

Can anyone recommend- Would it be best to have side darts and below bust darts-and lines for waist, maybe have a sleeve made too? Generally what would the cost of something like this range?

I think it would be worth the expense. Goodness knows I spend too much time with these fitting issues. I cannot go to any workshops because of my schedule.

Does this seem like a good idea?


Carolyn
-- Edited on 4/10/13 1:51 AM --

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
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California USA
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Date: 4/10/13 2:59 AM

It's a fantastic idea! Had I done this years ago I would have saved a lot of time, money, and agravation.

You could probably do it on your own---eventually. It is so much easier to have someone else fit you, especially a pro.

I say go for it.

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

Irina Grace
Irina Grace
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Date: 4/10/13 3:09 AM

It is a great idea to have a muslin custom made to your measurements. I would say if you know a dressmaker why can draft a pattern and fit your muslin well on you - go for it! You will need your drafted pattern of a muslin too so do not forget to ask about that at the beginning. I suggest to make a dress pattern/muslin with sleeves. Also want to mention that basic muslin dress patterns (at least those drafting methods that I know) are not cut at the waist and uses a dart from a shoulder to a high point of a bust that continues down to the hem. After that you can move the bust dart from a shoulder to a side seam.

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Irina Grace
English is my Second Language

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 4/10/13 5:27 AM

I have done it for a lady not long ago - a bodice with sleeves and trousers, drafted for her and muslin sewn and fitted. She had exactly the same problem as you describe :))

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JTink
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JTink
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Date: 4/10/13 8:32 AM

This sounds like a great idea, but I don't think I could ever figure out how to apply the sloper/muslin to a pattern I want to use. If the garment you want to make is a different style, where to do you place the sloper? Do you line up the shoulders, or the side seams, or the neck? I guess it would be a new trick this old dog would have to learn

unfinishedprojects
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Alberta CANADA
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Date: 4/10/13 11:17 AM

This is how to use it: The Merits of a Basic Fitting Pattern

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to unfinishedprojects <<


Date: 4/10/13 12:01 PM

Thank you Unfiinishedprojects, this is exactly what I needed to see to understand the process

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/10/13 1:41 PM

Thank for posting the link to the Karen Howland article.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to CarolynD <<


Date: 4/10/13 4:26 PM

I'd suggest you get a fitting shell of a pattern company you like, and use that to have fitted. That way, when you buy that pattern again, you can remember what changes needed to be made. Or you can cut the fitting shell apart and use that to make your sloper (out of cardboard). I did this with a SureFit Designs Dress kit and it's great to have fun with it. Recently I made a jacket like top and removed the darts, added to the shoulders for a shoulder pad, and did a few other things.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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CarolynD
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CarolynD
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Date: 4/11/13 0:07 AM

Thanks for everyone's comments. I am going to make a sloper out
of this:

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/pleated-peplum-top-112012

for a bodice I think. It looks like a good beginning. I think I could split the waist dart in 2 and add a bust dart if I want. Burda doesn't make a sloper anymore! Too bad. I really like the way Burda patterns fit. I am taller than most people and their patterns don't run so short on me, and there is more bust room in the patterns I have tried from them. I found a woman who teaches sewing and fitting, so she will explain concepts to me.

Also here is a good page that explains the concept nicely. I still have a hard time understanding this.

Carolyn
-- Edited on 4/11/13 0:16 AM --

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