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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > how easy do you think it would be to make this design?

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how easy do you think it would be to make this design?
first attempt at drafting a dress
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 4/10/13 4:15 PM

For those of you who have seen some of my previous posts, you'll know I've been hunting for a design to use for my dress making course.

I have to draft my own dress from scratch (eek). I've found it hard to find something I've really fallen for AND that it will be a practical choice for more regular wear - not just for a special occasion.

Dior is my inspiration, and I found this gorgeous dress and I'd like to make something similar, but without the sleeves.

A few thoughts so far - I'd like to make it in a stiff cotton or other appropriate (not silk!) fabric. The bust shaping is really interesting. There are actually three darts, one from the waist, and two side darts. A combination I haven't seen before (you can zoom in to see this in detail).

I am feeling a tad daunted at deviating from the comfort of a pattern. Advice and thoughts much appreciated.....

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 4/10/13 4:19 PM

The part I'm having trouble wrapping my mind around is the facing part at the waist, and how it comes down to the front. Is the upper portion of the dress attached? Or is it a top underneath a skirt?

There are three tucks on each side, which you could do, provided you added enough fullness to make it work.

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stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 4/10/13 6:04 PM



You can totally make this dress. I am confident that *I* could draft and drape a pattern for this dress, which is how I know for CERTAIN that YOU can do it. And I think it would be lovely in a nice crisp cotton sateen, or maybe something glazed (if you can find it) to give it just a teensy bit more body.

I would probably start by envisioning the skirt as a separate piece, and after I got the shape of that sorted out, figure out how to make the whole thing up as one piece.

ETA: I'm sure you know all of this already, but this Threads article on using a sloper to fit a pattern is a good refresher that makes sense of a lot of information, all in one place.

Good luck!
-- Edited on 4/10/13 6:12 PM --

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~Gem in the prairie

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 4/10/13 6:06 PM

The accent at the waist is so prominent that it may overpower a sleeveless dress.

Nix that and a sleeveless version should be fine, but not in cotton. This dress deserves a better product.

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 4/10/13 6:10 PM

thank you stirwatersblue for the vote of confidence! I just love the elegant simplicity and the lines are striking.

My sister's suggested a corset. Do you think some boning in the bodice would help give it some structure? I know you have made things which require a shaped form so hopefully you can advise!

I am a little excited to think I may have found"it" at last in terms of moving forward. I really need to make a start on the process otherwise its going to be rather a rush.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 4/10/13 6:12 PM

hi Miss fairchild

You've raised a good point. Maybe it might work best to have a "main dress" with bodice attached, then add an overskirt? I could practice the draping on my dress form.

One thing for sure, this going to gobble up some fabric!

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to rmusic1 <<


Date: 4/11/13 3:21 AM

Quote: rmusic1
My sister's suggested a corset. Do you think some boning in the bodice would help give it some structure? I know you have made things which require a shaped form so hopefully you can advise!

Well, first off, I don't do 1950s, so take this for what it's worth, but nothing I see suggests a corset--the torso is only softly shaped and looks naturally curvy to me (not rigidly realigned). I think a girdle is probably more likely. But all that aside--you're not trying to recreate this dress; you're designing your own dress inspired by this one, and you've said you want it more practical for everyday wear--in which case, a corset is the last thing you're going to want.

I also think that this gown was made for a larger woman than you, so your modern, made-to-fit-you interpretation is going to look a little less curvy. (Also on the practical, everyday side, you'll probably want less petticoat, so think about how that's going to affect the shape of the skirt. You can reassign that fullness to the hemline instead, using horsehair or another hem stiffener; you'll get a similar belling-out of the skirts, without the hassle of all those floofy layers. Padding those pleats at the waist can help, too--but that might not be a place you want to add width, in an everyday fashion.)

Have fun! I'm excited that you've found your inspiration piece. Now go hunt down some inspiration fabrics and start draping away!
-- Edited on 4/11/13 3:22 AM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

petro
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Date: 4/11/13 3:46 AM

What a lovely detail that waistline is! I would draft the part that wraps around the waist like a waistband as an extension to the front skirt, possibly having a seam at the side to join it to a back waistband piece if drafting the whole length as one extension was unwieldly or impossible.

PattyE
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Date: 4/11/13 8:56 AM

Love the dress! I know you said you don't want silk but taffeta or shanting might be perfect and are not difficult to work with.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 4/11/13 2:43 PM

OK, i've taken all the tips and advice onboard. Much as I like taffeta, it is a bit too "dressy" for me to wear the dress for day wear. However, I have been looking at different silks and found some more "matte" versions which I think could work.

What do you think of grosgrain silk or Peau de soie? The last is something that seams to pleat quite well and hold its shape. I think the best way to start the draft process is to probably drape this on the stand to get an idea, and go from there.

I work better in 3D anyway and I can then work out the bust shaping better. I know I do not have the hourglass figure that Dior adored, but am willing to work with what I have - I dont mind extra padding on my hips, as from a front profile they dont have as much curve as from the back.

To be blunt, the width is mostly on my bottom not the sides. Havent dont anything like that before, so its going to be a learning curve (pardon the pun!).

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