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Unusual zipper - how do I achieve this effect?
sari314
sari314
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Date: 4/17/13 1:43 PM

I'm an advanced beginner with very basic knowledge of sewing and pattern-making. Currently trying to imitate a top I found online that uses a zipper in a pretty unusual way. I think I've figured out the basic structure of the garment but I'm not sure how to go about adding that zipper. Can anybody help me?

It looks like this:

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 4/17/13 1:59 PM

This looks like a double separating zipper. It would have one pull at the bottom and one at the top. the measurement you need would be from the bottom edge of the top to where it meets the strap. If you can't get an exact size you can just remove some of the "zipper thingies" that are beyond the needed measurement. You must leave enough so you can insert the zipper into the seam where it meets the strap, which appears to be a circular "facing" type of strap. It also appears that whoever designed this had a specific size zipper and just made the top that long so there would be no removing of the "thingies". You can tell this because if you look at the area where the zipper ends at the strap you can see the zipper stops. This is a fabulous design and I think pretty easy to execute. Just look for a sweetheart neckline and add a center front seam. Make sure you add seam allowances all down the center front. Thanks for the inspiration.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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Date: 4/17/13 2:05 PM

It looks like they used a dual separating zipper.

Have you ever made a bag with a zipper? This looks like it would be more like that than like any garment zipper insertion. (Although I've never really looked at instructions for the currently trendy exposed zipper.)

How I would do it (first step before attaching the front yoke pieces):

Place one front piece right side up, zip the zipper at least halfway (closed at the bottom - can be closed the whole way to keep it neat), and align the bottom of the zipper (face down - so it's right sides together w/ the fabric) at the hemline. Pin (or hand baste) the zipper tape along the center front seam allowance (keep the zipper face down) - and continue all along the neckline. Use a zipper foot to sew close to the teeth. You can press toward the fabric if you want, or wait until after the next step.

Unzip at least halfway from the top (the bottom should stay zipped so you can match the front pieces). This time lay the zipper (and the attached the fabric) right side up. Spread the open portion of the zipper. Lay the unattached front piece, right side down, on top, aligning the zipper tape and the unsewn seam allowance. Again, all the way to the end of the neck opening. Pin or baste, and sew using your zipper foot.

Then complete the top using this as a single pattern piece.

Oh, and if you are finishing your seams, you may want to finish these before sewing on the zipper.

Laurie Lou
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Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/17/13 2:55 PM

Also...You might need to clip the tape along the curve. Not sure of this but you might. I did a curved zipper but it needed to be zipped also...just a thought.

------
Laurie Lou

BeckyNoSleep
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BeckyNoSleep
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Date: 4/17/13 3:14 PM

The other thing - I was wondering how in the world you make sure the top zipper pull stays where you want it I would assume that you would actually find a way to "fix" its location (like do and hand stitch through the zipper teeth right under the pull), and use the lower zipper pull to get in and out of the top. Good luck!

Rhey
Rhey
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In reply to BeckyNoSleep <<
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Date: 4/17/13 5:23 PM

That's what I was wondering about, too, but maybe the OP has more mature friends than I do. I was thinking a hook and eye sewn on the inside just below where you want the pull to be. Though you could just test your zippers ahead of time to find one that doesn't zip smoothly.

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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In reply to Rhey <<
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Date: 4/17/13 6:53 PM

Locking Zipper Pulls do exist. I believe they include some kind of "peg" that pokes into the zipper tape. Here's a patent drawing for one type.

The zipper heads on all my jeans all lock when the zipper tab is down, although I am not clear about the exact mechanism. I know sometimes it's as simple as a "peg" on the zipper tab itself. If the tab is laying down flat against the zipper, the zipper head does NOT move. (This is the most common example of a locking zipper head that came to mind.)

I had a pair of jeans where the zipper lock did NOT work - incredibly annoying - the zipper would just unzip itself as I wore the jeans. I hadn't really thought much about locking zipper tabs until I dealt with that pair of jeans.

CMC
-- Edited on 4/17/13 7:29 PM --

beki b.
beki b.  Friend of PR
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In reply to sari314 <<


Date: 4/18/13 0:48 AM

you may need to gather the zipper tape to fit the curved area of the bodice.

Rhey
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In reply to CM_Sews <<


Date: 4/18/13 2:04 AM

I'm familiar with them, they're the only zippers I'd ever use in jeans for exactly the reason you mentioned. I had no idea how they worked, I'd never given it much thought and assumed the locking mechanism was something the pull interacted with at the zipper stop assembly on the top. They do stop a zipper from working its way down, but they do not stop idiot friends. The joys of college.

CM_Sews
CM_Sews
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In reply to Rhey <<


Date: 4/18/13 6:03 AM

I don't have a locking mechanism idea for idiot friends, unfortunately.

36-inch brass parka zipper

Here's an example of a zipper that will probably work. This one looks a lot the the zipper in the photo you posted. Once you have the zipper in hand, it's easy enough to test whether or not it has a locking zipper head. My guess is that the zipper head will lock - you'd need that on a parka. You can also get parka zippers that are molded plastic, but I think the brass zipper might be more flexible around the neckline curve, and metal looks more stylish in this application.

CMC

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