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Ultra Narrow Hem for Moleskin
needed because I had to shorten a piece . . .
Mole Princess
Mole Princess
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Date: 4/18/13 11:22 AM

Hello, all. I'm finishing a RTW adaptation of a four-gore skirt with a four-gore flounce, and had to sacrifice some length when I found the flounce seam hit me in the knee in a way that hurt. (Was not in mood for picking out some triple stitch topstitching so I cut out my seam entirely.)

To get the look I am after, I now have no length to spare and would like to find a way to hem the skirt using only 1/8" of fabric . . . say, by sewing on a strip of ultra fine bias something, and turning the strip up for the hem.

Does anyone sell a notion like this already, or would I just have to buy some silk or polyester and make my own bias?

Standard poly-cotton bias will make the hem too stiff and make it stand out rather than drape. Only something ultra light will work.

Thanks, any and all!

Patti B
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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 4/18/13 11:30 AM

This would be the perfect spot to use old fashioned RAYON bias binding if you have any in your stash. It's soft and drapes nicely. Failing that, you might try Seams Great. It is a very sheer, very fine bias nylon tape. It can be a bit fiddly to work with so make some samples. Good luck!

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Patti

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PattiAnnJ
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Date: 4/18/13 12:37 PM

That would be my suggestion unless you can do a narrow serged edge and turn it up and then top-stitch.

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wendyrb
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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 4/18/13 11:03 PM

I've never used moleskin, but it sounds like your fabric is lightweight and drapey. If so, is there a reason you wouldn't use a serger finished edge that you leave exposed? You could try a 3-thread narrow hem, or a 3-thread rolled, or a 2-thread rolled. For thread it could be very light weight and inconspicuous or a decorative thread- matching or contrast.

If you want to turn the hem, try Emma Seabrooke's Extremely Fine Stay Tapes
She has them for wovens and knits in widths from about 1/4" to 1 1/4" in white, black and some ivory. The knit 1 is very delicate and does not change the hand of the fabric, drape, etc. They are great products. You could trim it with a rotary cutter if you want a different width. Good luck.

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Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Molliefran
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Date: 4/19/13 7:52 AM

Moleskin should not ravel. What about leaving the raw edge exposed?

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Mole Princess
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Date: 4/19/13 9:28 AM

These are some great ideas!

Well, the leave it be idea is intriguing. The moleskin I'm using doesn't ravel much, but it eventually does ravel. I'm not finishing the inside seams. But this gives me courage to wear the skirt till I hem it!

Rayon binding sounds lovely--I hadn't known of it. None in my stash, though. The Seams Great would be good if it came in colors--my skirt is dark brown. So the very narrow knit stabilizer tape in black might be my solution--or to buy a fabric and cut bias.

I don't have a serger, so probably can't do the turn up. My Janome has some good overcast edge stitches, though, so I might experiment on a sample and see what results I can achieve. I'd need to not stretch out the edge (slightly curved).

I am so appreciative of all the ideas and help. Many minds make for a solution!
-- Edited on 4/19/13 9:31 AM --

wendyrb
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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 4/19/13 10:40 AM

If concerned about not stretching out, would you consider going the other way? Deliberately stretch it out with a tiny zig-zag lettuce-leaf hem? It would have to look good with your style skirt and of course appeal to you. Do you know anyone with a serger? Then you could try some experiments. Watch out!!! Easy to get hooked and have to have one. Love mine. Lots of creative potential.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

SewButterflySew
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In reply to wendyrb <<
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Date: 4/19/13 12:10 PM

Quote: wendyrb
If concerned about not stretching out, would you consider going the other way? Deliberately stretch it out with a tiny zig-zag lettuce-leaf hem? It would have to look good with your style skirt and of course appeal to you. Do you know anyone with a serger? Then you could try some experiments. Watch out!!! Easy to get hooked and have to have one. Love mine. Lots of creative potential.

I would up with an embroidery machine that way - a friend let me use hers to do a monogram on some towels, and the next thing I knew, I had to have one.


What about doing a baby rolled hem on the skirt? Like this BurdaStyle Tutorial.
Nancy K
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In reply to Mole Princess <<


Date: 4/19/13 5:11 PM

Sew a faced hem. Buy wide bias tape press it open, a 2" width when open will work. Steam it to match the curve of your hem, sew it in the narrowest seam you can manage and turn it up, and hem as you like. The top edge does not have to be finished as bias doesn't ravel.

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Mole Princess
Mole Princess
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Date: 4/19/13 6:28 PM

I decided to go with a bias faced hem. I did consider the rolled hem but the skirt is dark brown and almost looks like real suede because of the cut, which I like, and so the delicate rolled hem or lettuce looks are good ideas but not compatible with this particular style project.

I found brown poly lining fabric at Joann and will cut the bias out of that. (Then sew together my leftover triangles and use to line another skirt that's in the works.)

I love how bias doesn't ravel! I faced the waistband with bias and left it unturned and unfinished on the inside. (It was a cotton leftover . . . couldn't use it for the hem.) I didn't know that was "official." Glad to know it is! :-)

I think lining-for-bias is something I'll use not just for this hem but for a future waistband also.

Thank you again all, and I'll try to post a picture when it's done. Hopefully this thread will help someone else who has to perform a rescue!

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