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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > wonky serger seam ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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wonky serger seam
thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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Date: 4/21/13 9:32 PM

Well, hopefully this is an easy fix. I'm making McCalls 6700 (knit maxi dress) and just sewed up the skirt pieces and they are starting to look like a total failure! I'm fairly new to using my serger and I think that is what is causing the problems. If you look at the photo, the seam is running down the center of the skirt and it seems like the fabric is pulling upwards towards it- but only on the bottom portion of the skirt. The serging looks fine on a test piece, but i guess it doesn't translate well to a huge panel of drapey knit! Is it too much tension? to low tension? And which kind of confusing serger tension? Or is it maybe just a bad cutting job?


(http://www.flickr.com/photos/thegreenviolet/8670725882)

Thanks!!

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 4/21/13 9:41 PM

It looks like it pulled it too tight. Does your manual have a help section? You might have to experiment a little as fabrics are so different. Did you adjust the differential and lighten the foot pressure? You might also need a lighter looper tension. Your manual should also have some help. HTH

thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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Date: 4/21/13 9:50 PM

I didn't adjust anything initially because the tension looked ok when i tested it on a scrap. I will check the manual I just wasn't sure what to check for, initially. You've given me a place to start- thanks!

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/22/13 0:06 AM

What was the differential feed set at -- that could cause gathering.

tigergirl
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tigergirl
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Date: 4/22/13 2:41 AM

I've had that problem before when doing long seams on very stretchy/drapy knits (slinky comes to mind). In my case, I just pulled the fabric down from where the gather started until it all straightened out (not sure how to explain it - I kind of held the part that was fine and kept working the gathered part straight - the reverse of gathering something). Quick and dirty fix but sometimes that's all my frustration level will allow.

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Geejay
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 4/22/13 5:41 AM

Sometimes it's easier not to think in terms of tension(except for the needles) so loosen these if the fabric is pulling..but how much thread needs to wrap around the seam ( loopers). The thicker the fabric the more thread you need to wrap around the seam..

The stretchier it is that when you get to play with the differential feed..I also use fluffy thread in the loopers with really stretchy


Check inside your machine and check that one of the looper threads hasn't come out of its track

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 4/22/13 12:59 PM

Try tweaking the differential feed so the layer that is stretching feeds a bit faster.

If you were sewing instead of serging, you would put the stretcher side next to the feed dogs.

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I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

thegreenviolet
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thegreenviolet
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Date: 4/22/13 2:40 PM

Thanks all! I'll give these all a try after work tonight and report back!

Pj3g
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 4/22/13 3:16 PM

That looks like lovely fabric which makes me almost hate to say this. To me the fabric appears to be twisted which would have happened in the cutting out. Knits don't have grain but still have to be cut straight as if there was a grainline. If the stitches appear good and are the same all the way down the seam then I would guess crooked cutting is the problem. We've all had a store bought knit shirt that hangs like your photo and is impossible to fold correctly because it twists due to being cut out crooked. To me, that's how the fabric looks on your photo. And to me the actual seam line looks like it's fine and but the slanted folds in the fabric tell a different story.

Make sure when you're cutting out that no fabric is hanging off the table. That will cause stretching. The same applies when serging. Don't let the fabric hang down as you're serging because that can cause distortions too.






-- Edited on 4/22/13 4:30 PM --

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Thank you Lord for my Mother who taught me the joy of sewing, for my Father who encouraged my sewing, for the talent You gave me to sew, and for all the special people in my life to sew for.

beauturbo
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In reply to thegreenviolet <<


Date: 4/22/13 3:43 PM

From the photo, of the two pieces seamed together, it looks like to me, you have actually got a longer length of fabric on the right hand side, seamed into a shorter length of fabric on the left hand side. If that is really true and I'm not sure of that or not, as maybe just the way stretched when sewn instead, but if so, if you release the stitching holding it in last foot or two of the side there, you might be able to "recut" it a bit to make things better that way too. Sort of depends though on even where things started getting more "off".

but if thinking about doing that, maybe even wash and dry it, in the clothes dryer first, to try to relax it and reshsape it, to even see where it might "spring back to" especially if you neglected to wash and dry it before cutting it out. Sometimes knit is just kind of "off" and pulled off knit grain even from the bolt, and sometimes that is just how made and sometimes I think it just got that way while being more stretched and wrapped around a bolt, and in that case, it might go back to a better place, even just after getting wet and then dried in the clothes dryer even.

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