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Assembly instructions
Resource for how to assemble garments flat
TamNearPDX
TamNearPDX
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Date: 4/22/13 10:46 AM

I'm trying to find a resource book for constructing garments in the flat.

Background I took two classes from Portland Sewing and they tend to teach the way a garment would be produced in a factory. However I only have handwritten notes for the garments that we did in class (a pair of beach pants and a 'camp' shirt).
I made an Easter dress for my 3 yo dd and was cussing because i followed the Simplicity pattern instructions and the sleeves were put in in the round (YIKES). I should have trusted my instincts and figured it out (I chickened out because of the lined sleeves with ruching).
So - any books and/or websites for construction in the flat?

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 4/24/13 2:53 AM

Some of the Islander Sewing System videos talk about this; I don't remember if she wrote books as well.

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JEF
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In reply to TamNearPDX <<


Date: 4/24/13 7:49 AM

LauraTS is right. The Islander Sewing System books and DVDs cover this. Peggy Sagers with Silhouette Patterns also does in her DVDS on Factory Techniques. I recommend both very strongly.

If a sleeve has 2 seams (a 2 part sleeve) it can't go in flat. Flat works when the side body seam and the sleeve seam can meet up at the underarm.

JEF
-- Edited on 4/24/13 7:50 AM --

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

TamNearPDX
TamNearPDX
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Date: 4/24/13 9:56 AM

Thank you!
I'm surprised that the Big 4 do not follow this technique as well since it is easier to fit as well.

Kimbercrow
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Date: 5/6/14 11:15 PM

Trying to locate this info myself and came across this link

http://www.fashionpatterns.com/download/Sewing_Order.pdf

My headache was a McCalls dress for my 6 yr old DD....

HTH

Kimber

marec
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<
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Date: 5/8/14 9:58 AM

Thanks Kimbercrow, that is a great link and the list could be printed off in order to post near a work area.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

MartiP
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In reply to TamNearPDX <<


Date: 5/8/14 12:00 PM

But most KwikSews do.

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MartiP

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Diahn
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In reply to Kimbercrow <<


Date: 5/20/14 1:30 PM

Thanks for the link. I've been doing this from experience. It's nice to have it all spelled out in one place.

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Catina
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In reply to TamNearPDX <<
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Date: 5/20/14 2:06 PM

Quote:
pattern instructions and the sleeves were put in in the round (YIKES). I should have trusted my instincts and figured it out (I chickened out because of the lined sleeves with ruching).
So - any books and/or websites for construction in the flat?


I have a cheater method I use to put sleeves in "on the flat" but still finish the armpit correctly. Basically sew your sleeve in flat, BUT start and stop 1" away from the armpits. Then stitch closed your sleeve's inseam and the body side seam. Then lastly just stitch the last two inches remaining in the armpit of the sleeve/body the way you would normally do if sewing the sleeve circular. This way you get a sleeve that hangs correctly, but not with all the pain of sewing it in entirely circular. I work in the fashion industry and have been raised more on "factory" sewing than the home sewing methods... so feel free to ask if you need anymore tips. :)

I also saw the same demonstrated by Kathleen Fasanella on Fashion-Incubator.com I can't find it off the bat, but her list of tutorials are here:
Fashion Incubator tutorials

If you don't find it, I will put it on my list to do a video of it soon.

------
Your "Pattern Hack Fairy",
Catina Ferraine

www.FashionHackPatterns.com

CM_Sews
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In reply to Catina <<


Date: 5/20/14 2:20 PM

Catina,

I think the Fashion Incubator tutorial you are referring to is:
A better way to sew linings and facings.

She discusses what she calls the "dominant seam". The photos in this tutorial were a revelation to me. I started sewing sleeves in a similar manner to you, so that the final seam (the dominant seam) was across the two crossing seams at the under arm. I really does make a difference!

CMC

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