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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Simplicity 2917, take 2

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Simplicity 2917, take 2
princess seam FBA, deep v back, eliminating facings, and moving the zipper!
Advanced Beginner
Member since 3/6/12
Posts: 63
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Date: 4/23/13 1:17 PM

I made Simplicity 2917 last summer, and I'm doing it again for an upcoming wedding. Bear with me, I have LOTS of questions!

Back then, to get it to fit my measurements, I raised the waist by 3 inches (later adding those 3 inches back at the hem and then another 2 - I'm VERY short waisted but I'm also tall!)
I also cut it to fit my full bust measurement (26w), grading to 28w in the waist, and increased along the multisizing lines to a 32w for my hip size.
The result was a dress that was far too big in the bodice (but which had a lovely flared skirt. I ended up removing several inches from the side seams in order to get the bodice to fit more closely, but the shoulders are also too wide for my frame.

Since then, I've been selecting patterns according to my high bust and then doing a FBA, but I haven't attempted it on a princess seam dress before (Simplicity 2917 has armhole princess seams).

This is my plan - does it sound reasonable?
1. just work on the bodice part to test the fit
2. make length adjustments for my short waist and long legs.
3. cut the shoulders and bust according to my high bust measurement (22w), grading to the 28w/32w at the waist and hip as before, and tissue fitting (or muslining) to see how much of an FBA I might need.
4. Do the fba & check fit again

I also want to try something different with the back neckline - perhaps to make it a low/wide v at the back. I'm fairly comfortable redrawing front necklines, but are there any fit issues I should be aware of before redrawing the back neckline? I'm also thinking abotu moving the zipper to the side seam in order to showcase the v back neckline without distractions....

The pattern calls for facings, which I'd like to eliminate and replace with a lining. The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but I ended up wearing a full slip under the last version of the dress to help with static cling. My questions are
1. is it feasable to eliminate the facings and instead attach a lining? is it advisable?
2. what type of lining could I use? and how can I connect it to the dress? My gut is telling me to attach the lining at the neckline and armholes, but I'm undecided about whether I should let it swing from there or attach to the hem of the dress...

All comments and suggestions are MOST welcome!

DeeMye  Friend of PR
Member since 11/2/12
Posts: 7
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Date: 5/7/13 0:53 AM

Hi, I can give you a little info on the lining part of your post...I just got done making McCalls 4433 for my daughters (it has princess seams). I spent a lot of time researching and studying the best way to do the lining. I used the following websites quite a bit, using the Threads article the most:Threads, also Cambie, and you can look at Lining info. However, I made lots of notes and some changes to these sources as I have not done a lining before and I am an advanced beginning garment sewer and perfectionist! I did not do any handstitching to the invisible zipper. I did have a problem understitching near the shoulders, I was unable to do it any further than 2 inches away from the shoulder seam, so the shoulder area was kind of puffy and bulky. You might not have this problem as you are doing an adult size dress. It was hard to turn the dress right side out at the tiny shoulder seams. For the lining fabric, I used bedsheets found at a thrift store, as they are only $1-$2 for a full-queen size sheet. The sheets are really nice as they are used and therefore laundered and soft. I highly recommend bedsheets! I let the lining hang free at the hem, and I cut the lining so that it was about 1 - 1.5 inches shorter than the finished hem. I just serge finished the hem on the lining and did not turn it up. The lining gives substance to the dress, it gives it a nice weight as the main fabric I used was a cotton quilting from Walmart, in my opinion all fabric seems flimsy and somewhat sheer to me nowdays. In the future, any dresses I make for my girls or myself I will line or underline.

auntnina  Friend of PR
Member since 1/18/11
Posts: 33
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Date: 6/4/13 3:30 PM

I'm also tall with a short waist, large bust, and very narrow shoulders. I have no advice (still trying to get a simple knit top to fit me), but am subscribing to this thread to see what wisdom the pattern-drafting experts will share.

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