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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Increasing sleeve size

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Increasing sleeve size
Going up two sizes
Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/28/13 10:56 PM

What methods do you use to make the sleeves of a blouse a size or two larger? Do you use the next size or two of the sleeve pattern, then make the armscye of the bodice larger as well, OR do you just slash the sleeve pattern and widen it? Or something else?

I always have to remove maybe 1/3"-1/2" in length from of the upper sleeve length, so this is another step as well.

Please share what method(s) you use -- thanks!


-- Edited on 4/29/13 10:06 AM --

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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

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Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 4/28/13 11:08 PM

I slash the sleeve horizontally and vertically and widen it without changing the sleeve cap or the armscye. I have large biceps, so normally it just needs to be widened there.

Here is a link: sleeve modification

------
Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to Michelle L <<


Date: 4/30/13 10:29 AM

Thanks, Michelle! That's very helpful. I had a feeling this would be the usual way, but then I started wondering if it would work to just use a sleeve that's already two sizes larger. But I suppose that might cause other issues, getting the armscye right and so on.

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

utahliz
utahliz
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Date: 4/30/13 10:52 AM

Joan, I frequently use a sleeve one size larger and have little or no problem setting it into the unaltered armscye, because so many sleeves are designed to be eased into the armhole. My markings may not line up perfectly, but they are close enough for it to work.

For some patterns, I also add to the sides of the sleeve as well as the bodice, giving me the needed extra room without compromising the relationship between the two. In my case, when I need the extra width in the sleeve, I almost always need it at the bodice side seam as well.

Liz

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to utahliz <<


Date: 4/30/13 12:45 PM

Thanks, Liz. So the general rule I'm seeing is not to alter the armscye of the bodice, just adjust the sleeve.

Right?


-- Edited on 4/30/13 3:45 PM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

Vintage Joan
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Vintage Joan
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In reply to Vintage Joan <<


Date: 5/1/13 10:50 AM

Quote: Vintage Joan
Thanks, Liz. So the general rule I'm seeing is not to alter the armscye of the bodice, just adjust the sleeve.

Right?

No one has jumped in to disagree with this, so I'm concluding that this must be the general rule.

Thanks.


-- Edited on 5/1/13 10:50 AM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

utahliz
utahliz
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Date: 5/1/13 1:12 PM

Well...............I guess it depends why you need to alter the sleeve. I need more sleeve circumference, but otherwise the sleeve is almost always fine and a just need a tiny bit more bodice width at the side seam. So I don't really want to alter the armhole except for the smidge of extra width at the side seam.

Obviously, if the armhole doesn't fit you or the altered sleeve absolutely can't be set into the unaltered armhole, you need to alter the armhole. But the fact that there is generally a fair amount of ease in the sleeve often allows a larger sleeve to be set into an unaltered armhole.

Liz

Vintage Joan
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In reply to utahliz <<


Date: 5/1/13 2:44 PM

Quote:
Well...............I guess it depends why you need to alter the sleeve.

Let's just say my upper arms are well-padded. The "padding" goes from the elbows all the way to the top (where arm and shoulder meet). I once figured out that my upper sleeve measurement was about two sizes larger than my bodice size.

That said, most RTW sleeves (if they fit) aren't usually tight in the armscye -- they're just not big enough around. I don't have tiny biceps, either, but the issue is mostly the (sigh) flab.

I may experiment with this a bit, to see if I need an adjustment in both places (armscye and width) or just in width. I think I also must need a back width adjustment, because I've occasionally had issues with tightness at the back of some sleeves.


-- Edited on 5/1/13 2:46 PM --

------
my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

Photo: A long time ago

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/2/13 10:24 AM

I can relate to your problem. I have found, unfortunately, that if you lower the sleeve cap, when slashing and spreading, then you are inclined to get drag lines. Perhaps there is a type of sleeve that is easier to fit on large upper arms and is still flattering in appearance.

------
Elaine

Sew Confused
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Sew Confused  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/2/13 12:21 PM

What about a two-piece sleeve? Would that work for your application?

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com

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