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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Seam allowance on flower girl dress's banded hem ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Seam allowance on flower girl dress's banded hem
Press it up or down??
Slyvchan
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Slyvchan
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 8/7/08
Posts: 155
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Date: 4/29/13 1:48 AM

With less than three weeks before my wedding, I have over sewing four projects to finish, but the one giving me trouble is the flower girl dress. I'm using Vogue 7681 as the pattern, and I've made quite a few changes (adding an attached pleated sash, drafting my own back ties, using an invisible zipper, etc.).

ANYWAY, the main fabric is a sturdy white satin with accents of thin, stiff poly taffeta. I made a 4-inch wide band in place of a hem, and now the seam allowance is giving me problems, or rather, how to press it. It's a relatively thick seam allowance (two layers of taffeta, one layer of satin, then all of that serge-finished). I want the bottom of the skirt to be as drapey as possible, and while the taffeta makes it pretty stiff, which way should I press the seam allowance? Should I press it towards the white satin skirt or the taffeta band?

Front of dress

Back of dress

Inside of skirt/band

I apologize for the coloration. I took the photos with my iPhone and apparently it doesn't like the lighting in my sewing room. The taffeta is a really pretty coral color

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And as you sew, so shall you rip.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 4/29/13 4:55 AM

I'd press it up :)

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www.iconicpatterns.com

Slyvchan
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Slyvchan
Intermediate
MI USA
Member since 8/7/08
Posts: 155
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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 4/29/13 11:19 AM

That's what I was thinking. The seam allowance acts almost as featherlite boning with the taffeta, so the less bulk there the better!

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And as you sew, so shall you rip.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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PA
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Date: 4/29/13 12:51 PM

The patterns I've used that have a band like that call for pressing the seam allowance into the band and topstitching into place. This has worked nicely for me in the past. If the seam is thick, perhaps you can grade it to reduce bulk.

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Melanie

DonnaH
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DonnaH
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TX
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Subject: Seam allowance on flower girl dresss banded hem Date: 4/29/13 1:11 PM

These are the 2 methods that I've heard for banded hems (the ones already listed in this thread).

If the main skirt fabric was heavier, I'd go with pressed down and then the bottom layer of the band folded over and hand-stitched to the hem.

But since the band is the heavier fabric (and it sounds like maybe you have already sewn it on?), pressed up (away from the band) would be my preference.

I think the stiffness of the taffeta band will make that skirt stand out a bit, even without a petticoat.

nitsel
nitsel  Friend of PR
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AR
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In reply to DonnaH <<


Date: 4/30/13 9:30 PM

I've just finished hemming three bridesmaids dresses with this type of banded hem. The dress skirt is chiffon and the band is satin. The band is pressed toward the skirt (satin pressed toward chiffon). I think pressing toward the band might make the band too stiff and make it stick out from the dress.
Your dress looks beautiful, by the way!

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