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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > I'm still working on shoulder adjustment

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I'm still working on shoulder adjustment
Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
Member since 6/7/11
Posts: 191
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Date: 4/30/13 10:20 AM

I've started working on my famous jacket shoulder adjustment. Have successfully completed one shoulder, but the other one isn't working out for me. I've moved the seam in on the shoulder to the needed width, but when I pin the sleeve in, there is too much fabric left on the sleeve and it is twisted. The stitching is almost all taken out and the poor jacket is sitting on my sewing machine looking sad.

I'm trying to get this jacket in a wearable condition and hope that I can succeed.

Thank you

carry
carry
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 304
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Subject: Im still working on shoulder adjustment Date: 4/30/13 2:55 PM

I have to mess with my shoulder and sleeve adjustments so much.Put on a tee shirt and try hanging the sleeve with the under arm sleeve seam sewn already onto your arm over the tee shirt .See where the sleeve head wants to sit. Where does it hit the seams in the tee shirt?How does that affect the fit at the side seam-under arm.,? Is there too much fabric laying in the back or front?Is it pulling up under the arm against your body?For the jacket itself : put on the jacket without the sleeve-compare the armhole with the t-shirt arm seams. You will need more ease for the jacket but look at the shape of the jacket armhole-where does it fall around your upper arm, and under arm? Another trick is to get out a garment that fits correctly and compare your jacket pieces to it,don't forget your sleeve allowances and measure any differences.I hope you can figure out what's off about this pattern for you.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 4/30/13 8:36 PM

Quote:
I've moved the seam in on the shoulder to the needed width, but when I pin the sleeve in, there is too much fabric left on the sleeve and it is twisted.
did you adjust for moving the seam? Meaning, if you moved the seam in the front higher, with the back being longer, did you redraft the curve of the sleeves?

There are several ways to do this. First would be to draw a line on the sleeve cap from just above the single notch, across the cap to just above the double notch. Slash this line by cutting in from the notches to the center part, but don't cut into the center. Overlap the front (if you moved the front shoulder seam forward) the amount you moved, and it will open the back. Add tissue to the back.

Another way is to draw a line in the same fashion, and slash all the way across the cap and move the front forward the amount you raised moved the front seam allowance. Then redraw the sleeve cap curve.

The third way is to overlap the amount you changed in the front, vertically so that it tapers to nothing at the hem. And then slash the back portion and spread it that amount. (this is from Peggy Sagers' Tissue Issues DVD)

It seems to me you might have one shoulder that rolls forward more than the other. If this is the case, you will need to make one complete piece showing this adjustment as your pattern. (Meaning that you can't use the back as being on the fold but will have to make a full pattern piece). I have this issue, on my right side but can manage to get away with an alteration change by adding 5/8" more to the seamline on the right hand side of my pattern.

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rosehatten
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rosehatten  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 5/1/13 3:47 AM

Hi Sunshine,
I have the same problem with twisted sleeves when I make the shoulder narrower. It helps if you increase the height of the sleeve cap.

If you baste the bottom half of the current sleeve into the jacket, you should be able to judge how much has to be added to the sleeve cap by the amount of the gap between the top of the sleeve and the armhole. Sarah Veblen's book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, has some pictures and discussion of this issue.

Good luck with getting the fit you want. Sometimes it's a struggle.
Rose

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 5/1/13 8:35 AM

Miss Fairchild, I like your "option 1". I'm going to try that on my next sleeve/armhole adventure

Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
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Posts: 191
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 5/1/13 10:43 AM

Thank you one and all for great hints. Hopefully today will be the day to finish this project.

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