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Forum > Fitting Woes > So many things wrong, not sure where to start ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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So many things wrong, not sure where to start
Fitting the ByHand Elisalex dress
lalalauren
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lalalauren
Advanced Beginner
AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 5/1/13 11:40 AM

I really love the Elisalex dress, and there are so many great versions of it out there that I am dying to make my own, but my enthusiasm has dampened since slapping together this muslin.
Here are some photos for clarity:





I made a size 6/uk10 with a 1 inch FBA. It is obvious I need a bigger FBA, at least another half an inch, maybe more. I realise the dress is supposed to be form-fitting but I can only assume that's why I'm getting the pulling on the sleeves, which seem to be way off. I also chopped one sleeve shorter because I can't decide if I want the short sleeve or long sleeve version. I haven't purchased a fashion fabric yet but I intend to get something mid to heavy weight, possibly a boiled wool, or there is a lovely rose-patterned black brocade at Spotlight that I will snap up as soon as it goes on sale.

So far I intend to unpick the skirt and let out the seam allowances at the bust and take in the seams under the bust as I have a good 1/2" of fabric that is not doing anything for my small waist.

So, I guess my question is: am I on the right track? I am still figuring out this fitting stuff, so any advice would be hugely appreciated. Thank you all!

P.S - I did a TERRIBLE job of setting the sleeves because I forgot to trace some of the markings. I was too excited to finish the damn muslin to unpick them and do them again, so please forgive the shoddy tucks and puckers!
-- Edited on 5/1/13 11:51 AM --

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beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
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Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
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In reply to lalalauren <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 5/1/13 3:15 PM

Can you link to the finished version of the dress you like, I'm not clear on how the skirt should look.

I do think most of your bodice problem will be fixed by a larger FBA. You may also need to bring in the width on the back and bodice, move the shoulder up so it fits at your natural shoulders. Right now it is kind of slipping off.

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1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

Marilly
Marilly
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Oregon USA
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Posts: 755
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In reply to lalalauren <<


Date: 5/1/13 6:12 PM

To be honest, I'd say pitch this one and have another go with a smaller size as someone suggested to get better shoulder fit and with the skirt at the length shown on the patterns home site. A guesstimate might be 2 sizes down for the shoulder and neck area, blending to the next 2 sizes up in the bust if that's possible and applying your FBA with the adjustment you mentioned.
If you're going to wear a strapless bra under this, you should fit with it instead of your regular one. This style looks it can't allow a regular bra and not sure how comfortable or secure it'd be not to wear one at all, your call.
The overall proportions of the skirt right now, are overpowering you. In the few photos I saw online, this dress is a lot shorter, which I think gives it the appeal and is forgiving for anyone who's a pear shape with nice waist ( which you have, your measures are awesome).
Don't be surprised that it takes more than one muslin to work this out..I think the success of this will not just be about fitting the bust and shoulders, but finding the best length, plus fine tuning the curve of the skirt so it fits and flatters YOU.
Fabric will also matter and the pattern recommends heavyweights, but the boiled wool idea has me concerned because I think that's fuzzish coat material. Guranteed to add pounds. Something that's no more than midweight, but with a crisp hand might work better, be easier to work with and won't feel too heavy in the when it's lined.
My two cents
Shel
Oh, here's a link to the dress pattern:
Elisalex Dress by Hand London

lalalauren
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lalalauren
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 5/1/13 7:56 PM

Thank you both so much for the advice! I forgot to mention that I fully intend to shorten the skirt to just below the knee, but I figured I would worry about that once the bodice was fitting properlyRight now it is hideously long and actually really hard to walk in! ha

I have never blended sizes before so I am interested to give that a go. I seem to always have fabric swimming around my back waist, even when I go a smaller than my usual size (which I did with this as I normally cut a 12) so I am keeping my fingers crossed this fixes my shoulder/upper back problem and then maybe letting out the seam allowances as needed for the bust. I'll cut my next bodice muslin with 1 inch seam allowances and hopefully that does the trick.

Thanks also for the pointers on the boiled wool. I think you are totally right and I amateurishly hadn't thought of how it might undo all my hard work on the fit. In my head I'd love to make this dress in a structured but comfortable wool-type fabric. I am in a country town in Aus so we actually only have one chain fabric store and they don't offer much in the way of wool winter fashion fabrics apart from some wool blends and wool suiting. I looked at the upholstery fabrics but I am having trouble imagining the jacquards at Spotlight as anything but curtains. Ordering online might be my way to go but I will put some more thought into it :)

Thank you both again! Can't wait to get started on muslin #2 :)

Also, here are some of the Elisalex dresses on pattern review. I particularly love Dixie's with the contrast side pieces and Zoe's Elisalex/Gertie's pencil skirt hybid version!
Zoe's Elisalex with a pencil skirt
Dixie's

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beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

Louweezy23
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Louweezy23
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 4/1/12
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In reply to lalalauren <<


Date: 5/12/13 1:34 AM

Looking by the date of your post I may have come into this too late. I had similar issue with my Vogue 2960. Looking at you we have very similar shoulders. Basically I have small shoulders and the dress had a scoop neck. Trying to keep the dress on the shoulders was a nightmare to fit. Here is what I would do.
From what I see the problems is tightness across the bust and shoulder fitting problems which is affecting rest of the dress. Your dress is falling of the shoulders. The style from what I can see is meant to be sat on your shoulders with a deep neckline. I would say from the front view that the bodice is flattening your bust so you need to let your seams out on the fullest part of the bust seam only, if your havent got any seam allowance, add a fuller bust adjustment. If you have any fabric spare on the back bodice take this in (i.e. vertical pleats by doing this it should pull the fabric up off your shoulders. Also you may want to try some shoulder pads. If all this works the dress will hang so much better from your shoulders, if it is still falling off the shoulders, the only other option is cutting the back a bit higher, by doing this it will keep the shoulders seam in place (this is what I had to do). Its a lovely pattern and worth persevering with. hope this helps
-- Edited on 5/12/13 9:10 AM --

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Louise
www.fromNo23.blogspot.com

lalalauren
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lalalauren
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 5/21/13 7:25 AM

Thank you so much for your tips! I have almost finished the dress but I have ongoing issues with my shoulders so I will keep that advice in mind for my next pattern. I am in the process of hemming the dress so I will post pics soon Thanks again!

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beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

lalalauren
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lalalauren
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 11/1/12
Posts: 43
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Date: 5/24/13 1:37 PM

Just wanted to thank you all again for your help.
I've finished the dress and blogged about it here and written a review on this website, which can be found here.

Thanks again! Wouldn't have got there without your advice

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beaglesbakinganddressmaking.wordpress.com

mgmsrk1
mgmsrk1
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Member since 12/16/12
Posts: 179
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In reply to lalalauren <<


Date: 5/24/13 3:35 PM

It came out very cute!

------
1968 Kenmore 158. (AKA The Hulk)
Bernina 230
Janome 6600 (for sale)
Janome 7700
Juki 600
Elna serger
Kenmore serger
Janome 1000 CoverStitch
Juki 8500 Industerial

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