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What is the difference...
Sew Confused
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Sew Confused  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/3/13 8:55 PM

Between French curves and dressmaker's curves?

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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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Muldini
Muldini
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Date: 5/3/13 9:25 PM

Am guessing here but it could be that French curves are the generic name for the set of curve-shape templates (used by all artists) and a dressmakers curve would either have markings for measurement/scaling on it too?

Not everyone needs to measure their curves...but dressmakers would have a fairly big need.
misschris
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In reply to Sew Confused

Date: 5/3/13 9:30 PM

French curves are usually a set of 3 rulers with varied curves. A dressmakers curve has the curves specific to dressmaking, eg hip curve.

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chris

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andye
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Date: 5/3/13 10:50 PM

Dressmakers curves are subsets of the 28 piece Burmester or French curve set. For instance, the Curve 17 is used to make armholes and necklines. The different shapes are seqments of
an Euler spiral.

Different curves are used in different applications. The 3 curve set was most commonly used for fitting quadratic curves ( ellipses, hyperbolas, and parabolas) source. And of course, the curves are produced to different scales.

So dressmaking curve is shorthand for "the curves you need at the scales you need". Another set is the variform curve, which apparently differs ever so slightly from the hip curve.

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Sew Confused
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In reply to andye
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Date: 5/4/13 0:12 AM

Yowza, my head is spinning. How is a person supposed to know what to buy to draft their own patterns?

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
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andye
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In reply to Sew Confused

Date: 5/4/13 1:06 AM

I have a couple of C-Thru 2inch*18 rulers, a L square (made of aluminum and inscribed with odd scale for the benefit of those without pocket calculators, a vary form (18 inches I think), a four in one ruler, which isn't that versatile, given that the scales are inaccurate, a #17 french curve (which is). . And some metric rulers for when I'm drafting from a European book... They've all run off and hidden themselves under some piles of fabric. Alas.

The brands, iirc, are fairgate and or Lance.

The C-thru rulers are good. Anything with a nice, fine grid that won''t obscure what you've already drawn.
How did I find them? Industrial supply stores, mostly, some of which do business on ebay. Under pattermaking tools, often.

As for what to buy.

Patternmaking for Fashion Design at Amazon It's really really expensive. But Click to look inside.

On one of he first few pages, the author lists

Curve rules

French Curve Dietzgen #17
Sleigh Curve (I don't have this one)
Hip Curve
Vary form curve.

And there are pictures.

aluminum rulers are good-- if it's too heavy it tends to get in the way.

-- Edited on 5/4/13 1:07 AM --

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

Sew Confused
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Date: 5/4/13 1:53 AM

Thank you, Andye, for that link. I guess that's the more-specific information you get if you spring for the $90+ book on pattern making rather than the $30 book.

------
Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
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andye
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Date: 5/4/13 2:11 AM

If you're not doing this as part of coursework, used patternmaking books can be a real bargain...

------
Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

pointpatou
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In reply to andye
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Date: 10/5/15 5:55 AM

I've seen menswear students use the sleigh curve a great deal for drafting, along with what looks like a really elongated version of the Dietzgen No. 17, along with the No. 17 itself, a hip curve and an L square. I'm not saying it's impossible, and Patternmaking for Fashion Design is a standard work, but I've never seen a womenswear student drafting with a sleigh curve. I wonder what it is about menswear that makes the sleigh curve more desirable.

I buy my drafting tools on Amazon, and at places like Fashion Design Books, Sil Thread, and Steinlauf and Stoler.

I own or owned:

A Dietzgen No. 17 curve
Another curve in the set with Dietzgen (lost)
A slender hip curve
A fatter, shorter hip curve (bought when the first hip curve was believed lost)
An L square
A triangle
Several C-thru rulers, 6 inches and one inch wide, to 18 or 24 inches, two inches wide
Several quilting rulers (as a guide for rotary cutters)
A flexible curve (necklines)
A drafting compass (lost)
A circles guide (lost)

pointpatou
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In reply to Sew Confused
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Date: 10/5/15 6:02 AM

If you buy a monthly subscription to the University of Fashion site, they tell you what tools to buy and you see them in action.

You can get by with a No. 17 curve, a hip curve, an 18 x 2" C-through ruler, a smooth tracing wheel, tracing paper, a needle wheel, and an awl (although you could use a pushpin in a pinch). A mechanical pencil with a narrow lead is good, as are three or four pencils in different colors.



-- Edited on 10/9/15 at 0:50 AM --
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