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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Significant size change from bust to hip question ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Significant size change from bust to hip question
...to slash or not
fourkid
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fourkid  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/13 7:33 PM

I am making a woven tank-type top. I am very pear shaped - very. I want to go from the smallest size option at the bust to the largest size option at the hip - actually I am even grading out one more size than is offered since all the sizes increase by 1/2" I am just adding a 1/2" inch at the bottom to get one more size. This is a total of adding 3 inches to the pattern from bust to hip.

Question:
Does it matter if I redraw the side seam line (on the front and back pieces each) to add the inches totally by redrawing the side seam - or is it better to just grade out say two sizes (an inch) on the side seam - and then get the other 2 inches by doing a slash and spread?

I know I could try doing it both ways - but I thought I would appeal to the wisdom of those who may have gone before me and already figured this out.

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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/5/13 7:55 PM

I have done it both ways and have not noticed a particular difference. Especially since you're making a simple tank top I would do whatever seems easiest. I have found that making sur to do the increase on both the front and back pieces keeps the side seam hanging straight.

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to fourkid <<


Date: 5/5/13 7:58 PM

If you were to slash and spread, slashing to just about the neckline, but not through it, it will make the bust area larger, even a little. Not sure if that is what you want.

That being said, being as you are making a tank top, which has very little side seam shaping, I'd add the difference to all the seam allowances. You can also use a french curve to make the side seams slightly curvy, thereby giving you some shape.

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goodworks1
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Date: 5/5/13 9:15 PM

It may depend on the shape of your lower half. If your hips (side to side) are where you are widest, then the side seams would be the place to add.

If the thickness is front and/or back, then you might be happier with the slash and spread method where you'd be adding where you need it most.

However, in the real world of a simple tank, it probably doesn't matter much....

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Molliefran
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Date: 5/6/13 8:14 AM

Thanks for this question. I did a pattern just yesterday with this issue.

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Karla Kizer
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Date: 5/6/13 9:42 AM

Don't overlook the option of placing the pattern at an angle on the fabric fold, so that the CF and CB are right on the fold at the top and and inch or two away at the hem end of the pattern piece. That way, there's little or no redrawing of the side seam.

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fourkid
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In reply to Karla Kizer <<


Date: 5/8/13 9:56 AM

Quote: Karla Kizer
Don't overlook the option of placing the pattern at an angle on the fabric fold, so that the CF and CB are right on the fold at the top and and inch or two away at the hem end of the pattern piece. That way, there's little or no redrawing of the side seam.

I have often wondered about doing that. It would solve many an issue for me - but I was always afraid that doing that would mess up grainlines. I am not good with the theory and math aspects of pattern placements - and no one ever seems to offer this means as an option. So I can do that and the shirt will still be ok? When would this option not work - if ever?

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Patti
http://poured-out.blogspot.com/
http://homeschooling-imperfectly.blogspot.com/

fourkid
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In reply to goodworks1 <<
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Date: 5/8/13 10:02 AM

Quote: goodworks1
It may depend on the shape of your lower half. If your hips (side to side) are where you are widest, then the side seams would be the place to add.
If the thickness is front and/or back, then you might be happier with the slash and spread method where you'd be adding where you need it most.
However, in the real world of a simple tank, it probably doesn't matter much....

Ah - this makes sense. I had never thought of that (see my post above) I am not so great at visualizing these things - pattern fitting is my weakest area - but I am forcing myself to tackle it and work it through. I started with the tank type since it is simple. The goal is to find and work 4-6 tops that fit me well so I will have some TNT patterns from which to build a wardrobe.

So I think I will combine both methods in order to add width all around. (Yeh, I need it everywhere )

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Blessings,
Patti
http://poured-out.blogspot.com/
http://homeschooling-imperfectly.blogspot.com/

fourkid
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Date: 5/8/13 10:11 AM

Thank you for the replies - each one has helped me grasp this just a bit better. For this version I am going to combine a couple of these options - and I know I will be making this again - so I will continue to experiment on this simple top so that I can grasp what to do on some of the more complex tops I eventually want to make. Thank you all for talking the time to help.

I find it a lot easier to sew for others - I seem to be able to fix their problems more easily - probably because they are not as hard to fit as I am. And to date I have stuck to sewing more simple things for me personally - but I just need to work these fitting issues out for me as rtw is a disaster and I rarely have items that truly fit. I need that to change (after all these years...)

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Blessings,
Patti
http://poured-out.blogspot.com/
http://homeschooling-imperfectly.blogspot.com/

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