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Thread tracing
tg33

tg33
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Date: 5/10/13 2:06 PM

I have seen it mentioned somewhere (I can't remember where) that someone didn't pay too much attention to the seam allowances, because they used thread tracing to mark the seamline, so they were able to leave plenty of fabric if they needed more for fitting.

Am I mistaken in thinking that I read this? Is thread tracing a legitimate way to mark the seamline? Is it hard to get the basting thread out after sewing the seams?

ETA, I looked this up in my Vogue Sewing book, on youtube and on the threads magazine site, but thread tracing seems to be used mainly to mark the grainline and crossgrainline in these sources.

-- Edited on 5/10/13 2:09 PM --

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Kemish
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Date: 5/10/13 3:26 PM

In tailoring, I was taught to thread traced the stitching lines along with the grain lines and tailor tacked pocket placements, etc. I still thread trace even if my project isn't a tailored garment because I use different seam allowances for different areas on the garment.

For instance, the neck edge I use a 3/8 seam allowance because it is easier to ease the neck/collar together. The side seams I use 1" seam allowance and the armscye I use 1/2".

Right now I am working on a jacket and I am adding piping into the seams so the thread tracing of the stitching lines has helped in aligning the piping.


I also thread trace with a silk thread - no knot at the beginning, and the thread is removed after I am done with the garment.

Thread tracing does require a few extra steps, but for me, it is an indispensable process in making a custom garment.

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Nancy K
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In reply to tg33 <<


Date: 5/10/13 4:45 PM

It's used in couture sewing and some tailoring. In these methods the seamline is matched not the cut edge.

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tg33

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Date: 5/10/13 5:24 PM

Thanks for that, it helps to get feedback! Does the basting/thread tracing thread get caught up in the seam when it is sewn?

Can I ask if I have this correct? I am planning on sewing a skirt, from Burda magazine. So, if I trace out the pattern pieces, don't add seam allowences, then place the pattern pieces on the fabric, cut around them leaving the seam allowance I think is correct, then before removing the pattern pieces, stitch around them using uneven basting stitches? (and also adding any other markings I guess). Then baste the skirt together on the seam lines, check fit, make any adjustments, then sew the garment together?

I am not a very experianced sewing, I spend much more time reading about sewing than doing it, but it sounds like the above method might be good if it means the end product fits!!!

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Irina Grace
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Date: 5/10/13 6:42 PM

What tread tracing do you use: tailor tack or loop-cut? I use both.I do my busting over tread tracing, I try the garment on and if everything ok I remove all loop-cut but not tailor tack (I use red thread for tailor tack- my important "points" on a garment). Loop-cut are in another color then thread for basting, so when I remove loop-cuts I am not pulling on my basting thread.It is better to remove those loop-cuts before machine stitching because it it hard to remove them after.

You have to outline your pattern piece before cutting. Remove pattern. Fabric has to be well pinned together all around outline on both sides from outline. Then it is ready for loop-cut over outline.

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Irina Grace
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tg33

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Date: 5/11/13 5:37 AM

Kemish and NancyK, thanks for the information. I own a copy of Claire Shaeffers Couture Sewing, and I've found a good description of thread tracing there!!

Irina, Thanks for that, a good point about using a different colour for the tailor tacks, I'm afraid I don't know what you mean by loop cut? The descriptions of thread tracing that I have seen seem to describe uneven basting rather than any cut thread (like tailor tacks) but there seems to be a division between couture sewing (for women) and tailoring (for men) in the techniques used.

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stirwatersblue
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In reply to Nancy K <<
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Date: 5/11/13 7:56 AM

Quote: Nancy K
It's used in couture sewing and some tailoring. In these methods the seamline is matched not the cut edge.

Isn't the seamline ALWAYS matched? (Or at least that's how I was taught to align pieces.) When would it be preferable to match the cut edges?

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Irina Grace
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Date: 6/16/13 11:44 PM


I have a picture of a drop shoulder dress I made. This is in work before separating left and right back pieces. Loop-cut hand stitch is in white. I made a loop-cut stitch in red on a waist line and center back seam is in blue. I did not put a grainline stitch - my grainline is parallel to my side seams(below a hip line). Two sides will be pulled from each other and threads are cut to separate left and right side. Tailor tacks are in red as I mentioned before because I need to have my importaint points (like ends of fish darts and starting and end points of a shoulder seam; tailor tack between them is my shoulder point - I needed it for a shoulder pad).
-- Edited on 6/17/13 0:45 AM --

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Irina Grace
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tg33

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Date: 6/17/13 12:24 PM

Thanks Irina!

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CathrynR
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Date: 6/17/13 12:31 PM

I do thread trace much, as much as I feel the preparation calls for. I would like to add in reply to your question........."Is thread tracing a legitimate way"........that in home sewing anything that works is legitimate, there are no, or should not be, any sewing police out there.
-- Edited on 6/17/13 12:31 PM --

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