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Forum > Beginner's Forum > diamond gusset crotch ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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diamond gusset crotch
yoga pants
Mishogawear
Mishogawear
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Date: 5/13/13 4:21 PM

I have been trying to serge the gusset in to a pair of leggings. I've tried 3 pairs so far. For whatever reason I am having a very hard time with this. Is there a trick to this?

I know what I'm supposed to do and when I look at a RTW pair it seems like it would be simple.

Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated

Elona
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In reply to Mishogawear <<


Date: 5/13/13 4:41 PM

May I ask what pattern you are using?

Mishogawear
Mishogawear
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Date: 5/13/13 4:49 PM

I actually modified my pattern. I manufacture a clothing line in California (I live on Long Island , NY). I inspected many pairs of yoga leggings. I actually snipped a diamond shape from my basic pair and re-attached them on my basic sewing machine. I then took apart the whole pair of leggings so I would have a modified pattern and made a paper pattern. I then proceeded to cut three pars out.

Been struggling with serging the last part of the gusset. Either I have a little space/hole, pinching, etc....

I just can't get it smooth.

I purchased a Kwik Sew pattern but they have a triangle crotch. I want the diamond

diane s
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Date: 5/13/13 11:07 PM

When you reattched it with your regular sewing machine, did it go together OK?

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to Mishogawear <<
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Date: 5/13/13 11:34 PM

Here's a cute little tutorial with a gusset sewn in as a bird's breast,
Gusset in Bird

Do you see on the last picture that the only stitching is the actual seam - not one extra stitch.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

beauturbo
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Date: 5/14/13 0:22 AM

I don't know how they do that and make it look nice, if there are actual 4 points on it. Most of the yoga pants leggings I have with the gusset they have kept the points going into the front and back seam, but the other two side points of the diamond, they instead just rounded off a bit, so they could overlock them in one fell swoop instead, straight across the inside leg seams.

I'm thinking they did that, on mine, as it's much tougher to stop and lift a pressure foot, then attempt to pivot anything on a overlocker compared to a sewing machine.

a7yrstitch
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In reply to beauturbo <<
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Date: 5/14/13 0:43 AM

Thank you, beauturbo! I just lost that part of the post

Yes, if you use the serger, round off the points that are at the inside of the legs first.

Here is another tutorial from Burda.
Gusset

I'd like to recommend that you sew a gusset in scrap fabric with your sewing machine first so you get a feel for the structure and will understand where you need to fold over points, fold points out of the way and trim and round off points.

The intersecting points of seam lines on the gusset are important and would typically be marked on patterns with large dots. Those large dots are key.

Once you practice on the sewing machine and are ready to try the serger consider hand basting instead of pinning for your first effort.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Sewliz
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In reply to Mishogawear <<
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Date: 5/14/13 5:31 PM

I used to put gussets in my leggings/tights that I made for fitness wear. The gusset was an oval with points front and back, not a four pointed diamond shape. I would sew the inseams and then sew the gusset to one leg at the crotch. Then I would sew the entire center back seam to center front seam treating the unsewn edge of the gusset as part of the seam.

Tucking one leg inside the other before sewing that seam makes it easy. Thanks to a blogger here is a tutorial for that part.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Rosalaya
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Date: 5/15/13 0:12 AM

So,, I am usually 'retro-fitting' a gusset into trousers!! (But I can't see that my method can't be modified for your use.)
With that the CF and CB are/remain sewn and I just undo down the inner leg from the crotch about 15cm each side.
I then lightly press the gusset piece in half (across the short part).
Pin right sides together along one long side, with the short point going to the (say) CF seamline.
With the seam allowances turned up and away from you, Sew from the crotch point down to the end of the long point, running off the fabric edge. Cut threads, return to CF to sew the other leg. (still on the front) all the seam allowances turned up away from where you are to sew. Sew from the cf crotch point down to the long point, sewing off the fabric again. Press, flat then away from the gusset piece.
Sew the other side in a similar manner. This time when you get down to the pointy bit I just make sure that I am skimming past the other side of the stitching.
Press this side also. Then just check for gaps. If there are just fold the gusset in half, long ways, and sew the leg seam together back to the part where the point is.
Try this out with some pieces of fabric and pins - it may make much more sense then!!


Mishogawear
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Date: 5/17/13 6:49 AM

Thank you so much for all the input. Very informative. Thank, thank, thank you.

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